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Tips on House Training


Consistency, Consistency and last but
not least Consistency.

What ever method you choose, make sure to stick with it.  If you
keep changing you will only confuse your new baby!!

House training puppies can be a challenge. Arm yourself with knowledge
and odor neutralizer spray and you'll be ready for house breaking your puppy.
Potty training a puppy can be very frustrating. It helps to remember that
your puppy is a lot like a human toddler, if it's quiet - worry. Puppies don't
know what you expect from them until you properly train them. While
potty training your puppy try to keep your temper in check; use patience
when dealing with your puppy - it is just a baby after all.
I've outlined 10 tips to use when house training your puppy:
Crate Training - Use a crate while potty training your puppy. Your puppy
should be in the crate while you are at work, sleeping, or anytime you are
not able to watch it. Dogs are den animals so being in a crate is natural
for them. Puppies will cry and want to be released at first, but be patient;
it will get used to being in the crate and come to enjoy it. Make the crate
a happy place, not a punishment. Teach your puppy a command when
going in the crate, for example, kennel or go to your room; this will make
it easier then trying to force or push the dog into the crate later. Also,
dogs are pack animals so it's helpful if you keep the crate in the bedroom
where the rest of the "pack" is sleeping. This is a tough one in the
beginning because the puppy will cry and you will be tempted to let it out.
Tough love, if the puppy is loose in the house then it will have the
opportunity to potty anywhere it pleases. Keep the puppy crated at night
until it can be trusted in the house. You may have to let the pup outside
during the night and during your lunch break during the day.


Be prepared
to lose some sleep, like I said, it's like having a new baby.
Take the puppy to the same area of the yard - Each time your puppy
goes outside go with it. Take the puppy on a lead so you can be sure it
goes to the same area of the yard each time. This way the puppy can
smell itself and know what it's supposed to do. Only give your puppy
about 10 minutes to potty, if it doesn't go, then bring it in and put it back
in the crate, wait 15 - 30 minutes and take it back outside. Don't let the
puppy play until it potties. Playing is a reward, don't reward bad behavior.
Puppies are just little kids, they go outside, get excited, and forget why
they went outside in the first place. It helps to give a command to potty,
that way it learns a little faster what is expected, and later in life,

if your running late, you can give the potty command and your dog will potty

and be done with it.
Praise for going potty outside - When the puppy potties outside - give a
treat, play with a favorite toy, say "good boy"; whatever, just make sure
that the puppy thinks, "Wow! Going potty outside is loads of fun, I'm going to do this again!"
Tether to you while inside - When you are at home, and the puppy is not
in the crate, consider using a long lead to tether the puppy to you. If the
puppy is loose in the house it can gain the opportunity to sneak off and
use the bathroom. The idea in house training is to avoid accidents,

the tether works for that purpose.
Take the puppy outside immediately - Following meals, drinking, playtime
or excitement, when you first get home from work, and first thing in the
morning. If the puppy gets excited it may have an accident,

avoid the trouble by taking the puppy outside.
Take the puppy outside often - Try to take the puppy outside every hour.
If your home, why not take the puppy outside for frequent potty breaks;
it'll learn that much quicker and you'll avoid accidents, it probably has to "go" anyway.
Keep a potty journal - Keep track of how quickly food moves through the
puppy. This will help you gage how quickly to get the little puppy out the door following meals.
Teach the puppy to let you know when it wants to go outside - Teach the
puppy to bark, ring a bell, or scratch the door before going outside. This
will help you know when he has to "go". The goal is for the puppy to get
to a point where it will alert you as to when it's time for a potty break.
Paper training - Using potty pads or newspaper is up to you. Some small
breed owners swear by them. Others think they are confusing to the
puppy if your ultimate goal is for them to potty outside. It will take longer
to house train if you first teach the pup to potty on paper, then turn around and want the pup to potty outside.



Some small breed dogs don't like going outside when it is cold or wet so a lot of owners use paper during the winter season.
Invest in a good odor neutralizer - Mistakes are going to happen, so plan
for it. If you see your puppy make the mistake act quickly, say NO or use
a penny can to startle the puppy, and run it outside to the potty place. If
you didn't see the mistake happen, bite your lip, and clean the mistake.
Use an odor neutralizer like Nature's Miracle or Simple Solution - these
products neutralize odor instead of covering it up. You don't want the
puppy going back to the same spot on your carpet.
House training is only the beginning, start thinking about obedience
classes. Yes, you can probably teach your puppy to sit, down, and stay,
but socialization is good for the puppy. It needs to learn that it is okay for
other people, strangers, to touch its paws and ears.
It should get used to going in the car and entering strange buildings and
walking properly on a leash now while it's young; that way a year from
now you are not stuck with an ill mannered dog. Puppies are a lot of fun
but you'll enjoy the dog more if you train properly now. What is cute on a
puppy may not be so cute when it's a 75 pound Labrador - plan for the
future. A proper foundation is crucial.



House Training Schedules

By: Dr. Nicholas Dodman

 Starting at the beginning of the day, it is important to take the puppy outside first thing to a carefully selected area and to encourage it to void.

House Training

Almost the first thing a new puppy owner needs to know is "how do I house train"? How do I do it, what can I expect, what should be my goals?

Without the right advice, owners can flounder around trying to house train their pup for months and, in some cases, years.

Opinions and expectations vary greatly on this matter, though there are some common truths. Some maintain that pups can be adopted already house trained at the age of 9 weeks but you have to understand the certain physiological limitations if you are to achieve and maintain this utopian state. At the other end of the spectrum are certain terrier breeders who maintain that their pups cannot be fully housetrained until they are 1 year of age, but I suspect these folk are doing something wrong.

It is probably par for the course to bring home a 2 or 3 month old pup that when unsupervised, has occasional accidents on the floor, and it is probably reasonable to expect to have the pup fully trained by 4 months of age. In order to achieve this goal one has to know what one is doing, to invest some time and attention, and to be very patient.

Physiological Limitations

Young puppies of 2, 3, and even 4-months of age have limitations when it comes to the time for which they can contain their urine. The younger they are the less control they have over the muscles that start and stop the flow of urine and the more frequent "bathroom breaks" need to be. The usual formula for estimating the number of hours for which a puppy can hold its urine is N+1, where N is the puppy's age in months. So, for example, a 3-month old puppy should be able to hold its urine for approximately 4 hours in a pinch. This means that if you have a properly toilet trained 4-month-old puppy that, theoretically, can hold its urine for 5 hours, and you shut that pup in a crate for 6 or 7 hours, you are courting disaster. Puppies that are crated for longer than they can contain themselves will be forced to soil where they stand. This creates problems down the line as soiling within the crate destroys a valuable reflex to keep the nest clean.

Sample Schedule for a 3-month Old Puppy

Working on the basis that a 3-month old puppy can hold its urine for up to 4 hours any house training schedule for a pup of this age must be designed with this fact in mind.

Starting at the beginning of the day, it is important to take the puppy outside first thing to a carefully selected area and to encourage it to void urine and feces. It is best to have the pup on lead so it doesn't wander off and become engaged in some other absorbing activity. It is also important to use some word cue that the pup will associate with elimination. The late, great Barbara Woodhouse popularized the expression, "Hurry up," as the verbal cue but others have used words like, "Make," or even "Poopies." Note: The significance of the chosen area can be imparted to the young pup via its sense of smell by depositing a small piece of urine-soaked newspaper in the vicinity.

Assuming a successful mission at, say, 7:00 a.m., the latest time that the pup can be taken out for its next "bathroom run" would be 11:00 a.m. The same ritual as before is engaged.

The next times for the pup to be taken out are 3:00 p.m., 7:00 p.m., and then 11:00 p.m. The ritual is always the same.

A pup of 3-months of age will probably not be able to make it through the night without a trip outside. Setting the alarm for 3:00 a.m. may be the only way to stop the pup from soiling at night, but don't worry, this stage of puppy hood doesn't last long.


In addition to the aforementioned times for taking the puppy outside, the youngster should be taken out 10 or 15 minutes after each meal, as eating stimulates the gastrocolic reflex. Note that different pups will have slightly different times after a meal at which they need to go to the bathroom. Learn how long it takes in your pup to "feel the urge" and be cognizant of this fact.

Another key time to take puppies outside is when they transition from one activity into another. For example, when they wake up after a nap, when they have finished a period of vigorous play, and when they have just completed a bout of chewing.

What If

Common Situations...What TO DO if...

What To Do if a "Bathroom Run" is Successful

Your puppy must know, in no uncertain terms, that it has done something that meets with your vigorous approval when it urinates or defecates outside. Sing its praises, clap your hands, jump up and down, and make such a fuss that if the neighbors saw you they might think that you've finally "lost it." In addition, pet the pup like you mean it and give it a morsel of delicious food. This is all-powerful positive reinforcement for a job well done.

What To Do if the "Bathroom Run" is Unsuccessful

Confinement is the name of the game if a trip outside proves to be a dry run, especially when you know it's been a couple or three hours since the last trip outside. There are four ways in which a puppy's freedom can be limited under these circumstances while you watch it with an eagle eye.

1) One is in a crate, unless the pup has had previous adverse crate experiences causing phobic of them.

2) Another means of confinement is behind a "kiddy gate", for example, placed across a recess in the kitchen.

3) Then there is tethering the pup on a reasonably short lead to a fixture in a room, but you should remain nearby.

4) Finally, there is so-called "umbilical cord training" in which you attach the pup, by means of a lead, to a belt you're wearing so that it is forced to stay within a certain radius of you.

The duration of the confinement should be approximately 15-minutes and then you should take the pup outside, again, and give it another opportunity for outdoor elimination. A second unproductive trip will necessitate a further 15-minute period of confinement, and so on, until your endeavors meet with success.

What To Do if Your Puppy has an Accident Inside

First and foremost, do not punish your puppy for having an accident inside the house. The blame rests squarely on your shoulders for not providing an appropriate, timely opportunity for outdoor elimination. Rather, learn to appreciate the subtle signs the puppy exhibits before eliminating indoors (circling, sniffing, etc.) and apprehend it before it gets into the squatting position so that you can escort it outside. If you are a few moments too late and the puppy is caught midstream, it is reasonable to make a loud noise as a distraction to arrest the flow of urine by causing the pup's sphincters to contract. Then, with a smile on your face, escort or carry the pup outside to the proper location to finish its business. Later, return to clean the area thoroughly with odor neutralizer. If you find accidents after the fact, you're a day late and a dollar short. Just clean up the mess, as described, and put it down to experience. Learn from your mistakes. Perhaps you waited too long; perhaps the pup was in an area where you could not see it. Take appropriate actions to avoid future problems.

What If You Have to Leave Your Puppy for Longer Than  it Can Hold Its Urine?

The bottom line is you can't. If you leave a pup for longer than it can hold its urine, it will have an accident and this will set you back on the housebreaking schedule. Instead, you should bring the pup with you, where possible, and bear in mind its needs. Or, you can leave your pup with an informed neighbor who will take over the training where you left off. If you have to go out of the house for 2 or 3 hours, it is reasonable to confine the pup in a small area where it is less likely to soil (e.g. in a crate or gated off area with a supply of food and water). Anything over 2 to 3 hours is tempting fate and, anyway, is not good for the pup. If the pup is used to being confined at night and does not experience grief, this is the best option. If it whimpers or whines a bit, tend to it at reasonable intervals, including taking it to its outdoor bathroom at appropriate intervals.

Housebreaking Older Puppies

For pups in the 4-7 month age group, a similar schedule can be adopted though the time interval between trips outside can be lengthened, making the schedule a little easier on the owner. Fixed-point excursions might be, for example, first thing in the morning, at lunchtime, in the late afternoon, early evening, and before bedtime. Extra trips outside should be made following mealtimes and after the pup transitions from one activity to another, as before. At this stage, older pups should be able to hold their urine through the night, though it may be necessary to rise a little earlier than usual to prevent early morning accidents. It's not a good idea to allow an untrained older pup to have free access to all areas of the house, rather it should be confined to areas where it can be observed and apprehended, if necessary i.e. actively trained.


House training a puppy is like potty-training an infant. The more time and attention you invest up front, the more rapidly the end result will be achieved. Think about it this way, your investment of time early in the pup's life will save you much time, energy, and aggravation in the long run. With an intense effort, a puppy can be house broken within 7 days, that is, if you have the patience. Even with a less than optimal effort, house breaking can be achieved within 2 to 4 weeks, so that by the time a pup is 4 months old, it should be properly house trained or you are doing something wrong. Incidentally, these same principles of training also apply to older puppies, who learn equally rapidly and have an even greater capacity to "hold it in." There is simply no excuse for having older puppies that are not house trained. If house soiling persists, it is as a result of owners not providing the appropriate opportunities for their pups to learn.


Introducing New Puppy to Car Rides


If you are REALLY lucky, car rides won't be an issue, but a large percentage of pups get car sick, and if this condition continues you should do all you can to prevent the problem as much as possible.

Put the pup in the car, turn the motor on and sit for a few moments before driving to the corner and home again.
Bring the pup into the house and let him have his meal.

Repeat this exercise 3 or 4 times and then next time drive for about 10 minutes and come home again.

If all goes well, make the next ride 20 minutes.

However, if the puppy shows signs of car sickness - drooling or vomiting, you'll have to take extra steps.
Do not take the pup for a car ride if he has just eaten a meal.
Restrict the amount of water before a ride in the car.
In other words - have the stomach as empty as possible.

Keep a roll of paper towels in the car, along with a garbage bag and a spray bottle of water for clean-ups.

An anti-nausea pill called "Bonamine" is very good and does not cause drowziness, as Gravol does. Give it 45 minutes before the car ride
I wrap the pill in a small dab of cream cheese and I find the dogs lick it from my finger and swallow the pill - cheese and all with no fuss.

The car-sick prone pup will need to sit in a stationary car many, many times, just listening to the radio, or playing with a toy.
Have the car windows open and the motor turned on.

If there is no drooling, then give the Bonamine and drive to the corner and home again.

Gradually increase the driving time, and continue to use the Bonamine.

Good luck with this project! It's best to try and overcome this condition early in the pup's life.

Many car-sick pups eventually outgrow the nausea and are fine as adults.


Checklist for New Adopters

Congratulations on adopting a pet! You are embarking on a wonderful and rewarding relationship. Because adopting a new pet comes with a lot of change for both pet and pet parent, we've compiled a checklist to help make the transition as smooth as possible.

Questions for All Adopters:

  • Do you have any other pets and how will they react to a new pet?
  • Is your current residence suited to the pet you're considering?
  • How will your social life or work obligations affect your ability to care for a pet?
  • Do you have a plan for your new pet during vacations and/or work travel?
  • How do the people you live with feel about having a pet in the house?
  • Are you (or your spouse, partner or roommate) intolerant of hair, dirt and other realities of sharing your home with a pet, such as allergies?
  • Do you or any of your household/family members have health issues that may be affected by a pet?
  • What breed of animal is the best fit with your current lifestyle? Is there tension in the home?
  • Pets quickly pick up on stress in the home, and it can exacerbate their health and behavior problems.
  • Is there an adult in the family who has agreed to be ultimately responsible for the pet's care?

Other Considerations:

  • What do you expect your pet to contribute to your life? For example, do you want a running and hiking buddy, or is your idea of exercise watching it on TV?
  • If you are thinking of adopting a young animal, do you have the time and patience to work with the pet through its adolescence, taking house-breaking, chewing and energy-level into account?
  • Have you considered your lifestyle carefully and determined whether a younger or older animal would be a better match for you?
  • Can you train and handle a pet with behavior issues or are you looking for an easy-going friend?
  • Do you need a pet who will be reliable with children or one you can take with you when you travel?
  • Do you want a pet who follows you all around the house or would you prefer a less clingy, more independent character?

Size Considerations (for Dogs):

  • What size dog can your home accommodate?
  • Will you have enough room if your dog grows to be bigger than expected?
  • What size pet would suit the other people who live in or visit your home regularly?
  • Do you have another pet to consider when choosing the size of your next pet?
  • How big a pet can you travel comfortably with?

Pet Costs:

    • Some expenses are mandatory for all pets, including:
      • Food
      • Routine veterinary care
      • Licensing according to local regulations
      • Collars, leashes and identification tags
      • Basic grooming equipment and supplies.


Other expenditures may not be required but are highly recommended:

      • Permanent identification, such as a microchip or tattoo
      • Training classes
      • Additional grooming supplies or professional grooming (depending on your new pet's needs)
      • A spare collar or leash
      • A bed and toys
      • A crate or carrier


§  Unexpected costs: Accidents and illness can result in costly emergency veterinary care.

Recovery tools for finding a missing pet can include posters and rewards.

    • A pet with special physical or behavioral challenges may require specialized professional support to overcome any obstacles these issues present.

Time Considerations:

    • Pets need to be fed two to three times a day, more often in the case of puppies, and need a constant supply of fresh water.
    • A responsible pet parent should spend at least one hour per day giving direct attention to his or her pet. This may include training, exercising, grooming, and playing or, with cats, may just be lap time on the couch. Dogs will need to be taken out to potty several times a day.
    • A pet with an abundance of energy needs more time to exercise and interactive toys to keep them entertained.
    • Pets with long coats need 20 minutes a day of grooming to prevent matting.
    • Pets with certain medical conditions may need additional attention, including specifically timed injections in the case of diabetic animals.
    • Remember that adopted pets may need additional bonding and reassurance time in the early weeks.

Shopping Checklist:

It may be a good idea to wait until you select your new pet before you begin shopping for supplies. For example, some items, such as food and water bowls or collars and harnesses, depend upon the size of the pet you will be adopting.

Also, be sure to find out which food your pet was eating in the shelter or foster home so that you can provide the same in the beginning, again to ease the transition. After the pet has settled in, talk with your veterinarian about switching to the food of your choice.

Once you've selected your pet, here's a checklist of supplies you may need:

    • Necessary Items for Dogs:
      • Food and water bowls
      • Food (canned and/or dry)
      • Collar
      • Four to six-foot leash
      • ID tag with your phone number
      • Hard plastic carrier or foldable metal crate
      • Dog bed
      • Doggy shampoo and conditioner
      • Nail clippers
      • Canine toothbrush and toothpaste
      • Brush or comb (depends on your pet's coat length and type)
      • Super-absorbent paper towels
      • Sponge and scrub brush
      • Non-toxic cleanser
      • Enzymatic odor neutralizer
      • Plastic poop baggies (biodegradable ones are best) or pooper scooper
      • Absorbent house-training pads
      • Variety of toys (a ball, rope, chew toy and puzzle toy are good starts)
      • Variety of treats (such as small cookies, larger rawhides, etc.)
      • First-aid supplies
      • Baby gate(s)


Tips for the First 30 Days of Dog Adoption -

Sara Lippincott, Manager, Shelter Outreach, Petfinder

The first few days in your home are special and critical for a pet. Your new dog will be confused about where he is and what to expect from you. Setting up some clear structure with your family for your dog will be paramount in making as smooth a transition as possible.

Before You Bring Your Dog Home:

  • Determine where your dog will be spending most of his time. Because he will be under a lot of stress with the change of environment (from shelter or foster home to your house), he may forget any housebreaking (if any) he's learned. Often a kitchen will work best for easy clean-up.
  • If you plan on crate training your dog, be sure to have a crate set-up and ready to go for when you bring your new dog home. Find out more about crate training your dog.
  • Dog-proof the area where your pooch will spend most of his time during the first few months. This may mean taping loose electrical cords to baseboards; storing household chemicals on high shelves; removing plants, rugs, and breakables; setting up the crate, and installing baby gates.
  • Training your dog will start the first moment you have him. Take time to create a vocabulary list everyone will use when giving your dog directions. This will help prevent confusion and help your dog learn his commands more quickly. Not sure which commands to use? Check out How to Talk to Your Dog.
  • Bring an ID tag with your phone number on it with you when you pick up your dog so that he has an extra measure of safety for the ride home and the first few uneasy days. If he is microchipped, be sure to register your contact information with the chip's company, if the rescue or shelter did not already do so.

First Day:

  • We know moving is stressful -- and your new dog feels the same way! Give him time to acclimate to your home and family before introducing him to strangers. Make sure children know how to approach the dog without overwhelming him. Go here for more on introducing dogs and children.
  • When you pick up your dog, remember to ask what and when he was fed. Replicate that schedule for at least the first few days to avoid gastric distress. If you wish to switch to a different brand, do so over a period of about a week by adding one part new food to three parts of the old for several days; then switch to half new food, half old, and then one part old to three parts new. For more information about your dog's diet, check this section out on Dog Nutrition.
  • On the way home, your dog should be safely secured, preferably in a crate. Some dogs find car trips stressful, so having him in a safe place will make the trip home easier on him and you. (Watch this video on Dog Car Rides.)
  • Once home, take him to his toileting area immediately and spend a good amount of time with him so he will get used to the area and relieve himself. Even if your dog does relieve himself during this time, be prepared for accidents. Coming into a new home with new people, new smells and new sounds will throw even the most housebroken dog off-track, so be ready just in case. Need more housetraining tips? Check out Dog Housetraining section.
  • If you plan on crate training your dog, leave the crate open so that he can go in whenever he feels like it in case he gets overwhelmed. Also, be sure to check out the dos and don'ts of crate training your dog.
  • From there, start your schedule of feeding, toileting and play/exercise. From Day One, your dog will need family time and brief periods of solitary confinement. Don't give in and comfort him if he whines when left alone. Instead, give him attention for good behavior, such as chewing on a toy or resting quietly (Source: Preparing Your Home For A New Dog).
  • For the first few days, remain calm and quiet around your dog, limiting too much excitement (such as the dog park or neighborhood children). Not only will this allow your dog to settle in easier, it will give you more one-on-one time to get to know him and his likes/dislikes.
  • If he came from another home, objects like leashes, hands, rolled up newspapers and magazines, feet, chairs and sticks are just some of the pieces of "training equipment" that may have been used on this dog. Words like "come here" and "lie down" may bring forth a reaction other than the one you expect.

    Or maybe he led a sheltered life and was never socialized to children or sidewalk activity. This dog may be the product of a never-ending series of scrambled communications and unreal expectations that will require patience on your part.

Following Weeks:

  • People often say they don't see their dog's true personality until several weeks after adoption. Your dog will be a bit uneasy at first as he gets to know you. Be patient and understanding while also keeping to the schedule you intend to maintain for feeding, walks, etc. This schedule will show your dog what is expected of him as well as what he can expect from you.
  • After discussing it with your veterinarian to ensure your dog has all the necessary vaccines, you may wish to take your dog to group training classes or the dog park. Pay close attention to your dog's body language to be sure he's having a good time -- and is not fearful or a dog park bully. If you're unsure of what signs to watch for, check out this video on Dog Parks and Good Play vs. Bad Play.
  • To have a long and happy life together with your dog, stick to the original schedule you created, ensuring your dog always has the food, potty time and attention he needs. You'll be bonded together in no time! For more information on creating a feeding schedule for your dog visit How Often Should You Feed Your Dog?
  • If you encounter behavior issues you are unfamiliar with, ask your veterinarian for a trainer recommendation. Select a trainer who uses positive-reinforcement techniques to help you and your dog overcome these behavior obstacles. Visit Dog Training and Behavior for more information on reward-based training.

Congratulations! If you follow these tips, you'll be on your way to having a well-adjusted canine family member.



A puppy's 1st 5 months is his/her most crucial learning period.  What he learns in that
time will form his personality. Make sure to socialize early and begin teaching him
about things that he will encounter all his life.  Grooming not only keeps your pet
looking good, but also keeps her skin, teeth and nails in tip-top shape while giving
you the chance to discover any changes in your pet's overall condition.

It is very important that your puppy/dog be professionally groomed every 4-6 weeks.  
The longer the coat the more often grooming is needed.  This however does not
mean that you do not need to brush your Puppy/Dog  daily!  Because some dogs do
not shed, their undercoats will matt quickly.  It is the daily brushing that removes the
dead undercoat thus effectively "shedding" the coat.  Your puppy, if started young,
will learn to love brushing and grooming if you use a gentle hand.  Professionals
agree that it is best to introduce your puppy to the clippers at the earliest possible
time.  The more familiar that puppy becomes with clippers, nail clippers, tweezers,
brushing and other grooming paraphernalia, the more comfortable they will be in the
future when they find themselves in dire need of a good grooming. Remember, a
good groom starts with preventative maintenance at home.

Mats and Tangles
They cause more problems than just a difficult brush out. If not dealt with, they can
result in serious skin problems and expensive vet bills. Tangles are easy to deal with.
Most of them brush and comb right out. But mats are different. They are formed by
friction when undercoat loosens and starts to come out, by a tangle that hasn't been
dealt with, or from simply not brushing and combing regularly. They are
like rawhide and have a life of their own. They stretch when they get wet, and shrink
to a tight glob of fur as they dry. As they shrink, the gather hair from around them, and
grow bigger and tighter and can be very painful.  Eventually they work themselves
down to the skin, pulling the skin up into them, causing skin irritation and hot spots.
Mats are difficult to rinse free of shampoo, and even more difficult to dry. When they
reach the skin they become itchy and irritable. Some dogs will literally tear out their
fur to rid themselves of these itchy appendages.
When bathing at home, it is important for the safety of your pet, to train your dog not
to jump on the side of the tub/sink.  Also, It is much easier to get your dog clean when
they are still and behaving themselves, it may be cute but very annoying and for a
professional bather.
Remember, all dogs are not good on the table for grooming. You will occasionally get
razor burn or a groom that does not meet your standards, please let you groomer
know if this happens so that it might be prevented the next grooming. If you are not
happy with a groom, tell your groomer before going else where.

It is important that your puppies ears be plucked each time they go to the groomers.  
Because non-shedding dogs have ears they are prone to "wet" ears and yeast
infections.  If the hair in the ears is not removed it becomes the perfect medium for
growing bacteria.  Yes the plucking can sometimes be a little painful to your dog, but
much less painful than a raging infection would be.  Also it is important to check your
dog's ears for fleas and mites daily. Groomers do not cause ear infections, lack of
grooming on a regular basis does.

Gum disease is a problem in toy breeds.  All dogs are susceptible to gingivitis just like
people.  The gums become ulcerated and inflamed,  leading to the gum receding,
bacterial infection, and "doggy" breath.  To help prevent this it is important to feed
your dog proper hard (not soft) dog food, give toys for chewing to aid in tarter
build-up, and regular tooth brushing.  DO NOT use human tooth paste, this is not
made to swallow.  Use only dog tooth paste.  We have dental hygiene products on
out site, or you can visit you local pet store.   
*REMEMBER* - the younger you start your puppy on a tooth brushing regime the
easier it will be on both of you!

Excessive licking or dragging of the hindquarters on the carpet is usually a sign that
you dogs anal glands are blocked and need to be expressed.  Please make sure that
your groomer empties the anal glands at every grooming.  If not done, the blockage
can lead to infection.  Larger dogs usually can express their own anal glands

Cutting the nails is very important.  If the nails are not cut they can grow and curl
around into the pads of the feet causing pain and infection.  It is also painful for your
dog to walk with long toenails.  Long nails can also become caught in fences or in
carpet and the toe nails can be pulled out.  Please remember to tell your groomer if
your dog has dew claws


31 Fun Facts and Helpful Tips About Your New Dog

Jacque Lynn Schultz, Director, ASPCA Special Projects

31 Days of Fun Facts and Helpful Tips
About Your New Best Friend

I like a bit of a mongrel myself, whether it's a man or a dog; they're the best for every day.

George Bernard Shaw

If you are planning to bring home a new dog soon, call a family conference to set up schedules, choose commands, and discuss who will perform which tasks.

A visit to the veterinarian should be scheduled shortly after acquiring a new puppy or dog. Be certain to take any medical records with you as well as a fresh stool sample.

When naming your new best friend, avoid confusion by steering clear of names that sound like corrections or other commands such as Snow (No), Sid (sit) or Dow Jones (down).

Abrupt changes in diet can result in digestive distress. Find out what the breeder was using and introduce new foods gradually over several days' time.

Kennel cough is caused by several viruses and bacteria. A hacking cough may persist for up to 6 weeks. Treatment may or may not be needed depending on severity.

Two dogs may be twice the fun, but it is important that each dog have an individual relationship with you and the ability to stay by himself from time to time.

The greatest dog in the a companion who does all but speak. He will be gay or serious; he will console you in your lowest moods.

Ludwig Bemelmans

In 1492, Christopher Columbus brought dogs of war to the New World. His men used them to seize the wealth of native Indian populations who lived in mortal fear of the dogs - for good reason!

Housebreaking is accomplished by employing the three C's: Consistency of feeding and walking schedule; Confinement, at times, in a crate to build bladder and bowel control; and Cleaning with an odor neutralizer when accidents happen.

Feed a diet that is age-appropriate. Puppies need the extra protein and calories found in growth formulas whereas as senior dogs need much less of both in order to maintain their youthful figures.

Spaying your dog will not only prevent unwanted pregnancies; it will also protect your dog from mammary tumors and uterine infections. Castration protects against testicular cancer and prostate problems. These procedures can be done safely in animals as young as two months of age.

Most actions pet-owners define as misbehaviors are merely normal dog behaviors done at the wrong time or in the wrong place.

By enrolling your canine youngster in puppy kindergarten classes at 11-19 weeks of age, he or she will get a jump-start on socialization and appropriate behavior.

No one appreciates the very special genius of your conversation as a dog does.

Christopher Morley

A dog just can't have enough identification! A tattoo or microchip is great for permanent identification. Make sure to keep the registry current when you move, change jobs or get a new phone number.

Although most people think of dogs as carnivores or flesh-eaters, they are really omnivores - meaning they eat plants and animal tissue. Unlike cats, dogs can thrive on a well-balanced vegetarian diet.

Hydrogen peroxide is a handy item to keep in your medicine cabinet. In addition to being an antiseptic, it can be used to induce vomiting if your veterinarian or poison control center advises you to do so in the event your dog has ingested a toxic substance.

Playing "hide the kibble" is a good way to exercise your dog on a rainy day. Put him in a sit-stay in the bathroom, hide a handful of dog food in a dozen spots around the house and then command him to find it.

The adolescent dog tests boundaries and seems to possess limitless energy - not unlike his human counterparts. Aerobic-level exercise, lots of mind-challenging play and careful management will get you both through this tough developmental stage.

Take a hike in one of America's 171 national forests. Your dog is welcome but must be on leash in developed recreation areas. Remember to pack out or bury any waste.

You may make a fool of yourself with a dog, and not only will he not scold you, but he will make a fool of himself too.

Samuel Butler

Every dog needs plenty of toys to stave off boredom by chewing, tugging, shaking and killing, tossing, carrying, hiding, burying and napping with them. Rotate toys to keep them interesting.

Dogs make terrific therapists. If your dog consistently responds to basic commands, enjoys new situations, and lights up around strangers, animal-assisted therapy can be a great way to do volunteer work while spending time with your dog.

In recent years canine health care has gone holistic. Veterinary chiropractors and acupuncturists are being consulted to alleviate pain alongside traditional practitioners.

Keep your dog's mind sharp and body toned by involving him in canine sports such as agility, freestyle, flyball, lure coursing, herding or water trials. Dog camps are the best places to sample an array of these activities.

As tempting as it may be, avoid giving your dog chocolate. Even small amounts can be toxic, causing a rapid heartbeat, collapse and, in some cases, death.

If you live in the country or go there on weekends, get your dog a reflective orange vest to wear outdoors during hunting season. Don't let your dog become another hunting casualty.

The dog was created specially for children. He is the god of frolic.

Henry Ward Beecher

To costume or not to costume, that is the question. If you enjoy dressing up your dog (and he enjoys it as well), make sure the costume does not hamper sight or movement. Take a few days to acclimate the dog to the finery before showing him off to adoring friends and relatives.

Halloween can be a scary time for pets. If they are not well socialized, put them in a quiet place during trick-or-treat hours or a party. And keep them indoors so they won't fall victim to neighborhood pranksters.




Ronald S. Hines DVM PhD 4/21/06

Many of us have been exasperated to see our treasured pet scooting along on the rug due to anal irritation.
In a few female pets, this can be due to vaginitis; but the majority of these pets have enlarged anal sacs. The anal sacs are two pea-sized sacs on either side of the rectum. They are found in a variety of animals. Their biological use is to impart an odor to the stool that is unique to the pet. In a normal pet, the firm, globular stool exerts pressure on these sacs as it is voided. However, if the stool is too soft or hard or if the pet has a tendency to thick, difficultly-passed anal gland oils, the sacs do not empty completely and become itchy or inflamed. In extreme cases, the sacs can burst. It is an extremely uncomfortable condition for your pet.

In approximately 70% of the cases I have seen over the last thirty years, the problem has been due to feeding the dog soft foods, table scraps, barbecued or marinated foods. About 10% are due to the "garbage hound" syndrome where the pet forages through the thrash eating "Big Mac" rappers, plastic objects, dirt, gravel or sand. Often it is the scent of table food that attracts them to these objects. In a few, the problem is a true "pica" or deranged appetite. Picas sometimes respond to large doses of supplemental B-vitamins. In about 10% of the cases the problems is a genetic tendency for the dog to produce anal gland secretions that are too thick to pass. I see this type of problem most frequently in toy poodles and miniature schnauzers. The last 10% of the cases I see are due to intestinal parasites (hookworms or whipworms) causing chronically loose stools which cannot express the anal sacs normally.
If the problem is treated early, a gentle massage of the peri-rectal area with a damp "Kleenex" every week or two is often enough to empty the sacs. I try to instruct my clients how to do this by observing me do it the first time. Some groomers are proficient in this technique. One must never massage harder than one would a grape without rupturing it. Then, dietary management to produce robust, clay-textured stools usually eliminates the problem. In some dogs, the problem has been present so long and the anal sacs (glands) so distended that they are best empties using a latex finger cot through the anus. This is not a procedure a normal pet owner would attempt. When the problem reoccurs again and again or the pet was brought to me late in the disease or after the gland has ruptured; I usually remove the glands surgically. First I treat the dog with a ten-day course of antibiotics. The surgery causes no ill effects if it is done correctly.

In ferrets, the problem can be due to a portion of the sac being inadvertently left when the animal was descented or due to a condition known as chronically inflamed bowel disease.

How to Deal with "Accidental Housesoiling"

By: Dr. Nicholas Dodman


  Let's face it. A new puppy is likely to have small accidents around the house, even though you may do your utmost to prevent them. No system is perfect, especially when it involves an active and curious, puppy with incomplete control over its bladder and bowels. Let's consider the three different scenarios when it comes to you, the owner, encountering a house soiling incident.

Before the Fact

If you are sitting at a table, minding your own business, and all of a sudden you notice your puppy sniffing the ground, circling, or (oh, no!) beginning to squat - stay cool. Do not suddenly jump up, yell, and charge at the puppy, as it will not comprehend such erratic behavior on your part. Instead, create a diversion, make a sound by banging on the table, or slamming a drawer, or even rattle a "shake can," if you have one handy, to startle the little critter's sphincters into contraction.

But note: the diversionary noise should not be seen (or rather heard) to come from you. Rather, it should just happen - a sudden rude interruption of what was otherwise to be a wistful moment. If the puppy turns and looks at you, you might even shrug your shoulders as much to say, "Who me?" But, at the same time, make your way over to the mite, pick it up, and physically take it to an appropriate location, whether to strategically-placed newspapers or to the great outdoors.

Caught in the Act

If you enter a room to find your puppy midstream, or mid-bowel movement, once again, stay calm. It's not a mortal sin, it's an accident and there's nothing done that can't be undone. Again, you might want to make a diversionary noise to attenuate the elimination process and then carry or walk your pup to an appointed, acceptable location so that it can finish what it started. Later, return to the offending spot, clean up the mess with a paper towel or sponge and some water, and then treat the soiled area with a proprietary odor neutralizer. Nothing more, nothing less. Above all, remember not to punish the pup for its indiscreet behavior. It doesn't know any better. It's your job to teach the pup, not its responsibility to instinctively know what you want it to do. Punishment will only cause the pup to avoid eliminating in your presence and that will make housebreaking extremely difficult. Anyway, it's unfair to punish a pup for failing to learn the proper location for elimination when you are the teacher.

After the Fact

If you walk into a room or come home to find an unexpected puddle or pile on the floor, do not immediately set out to catch and punish your puppy. Don't yell, spank, or rub its nose in it. None of this behavior is appropriate or humane. Punishment of a pup that is caught in the act at the time is bad enough, but punishment after the fact is a disaster and will not be associated by the pup with what it has done. Its "accident" will have occurred minutes or even hours earlier and many other things will have happened in its life since that time. To have you suddenly come ranting toward it, shouting obscenities, and with your hand raised will only confirm, in the puppy's mind, that you are truly psychotic and not to be trusted. This will increase its anxiety, especially around you, and will likely exacerbate the very problem that you are attempting to resolve (i.e. elimination in the house). The correct response in this situation (though you may be fuming inside) is to coolly, calmly, and collectedly, clean up the mess and neutralize odors as described above. Then think about why the accident may have occurred. Ask yourself how long ago the puppy was last taken outside. Were you asking the impossible - for the puppy to contain itself for longer than it was physically capable? Did you feed the pup and forget to take it outside? Was it transitioning from one behavior to another and you failed to capitalize on the opportunity? Whatever the cause, try and ascertain what it was and do something about it for the future.

Last Tips

Positive punishment, doing something physically to a dog to deter a particular behavior, is never indicated when training puppies or, indeed, adult dogs. This is especially true when it comes to housetraining. The correct approach is to train the pup to do what you want it to do rather than to punish an unwanted behavior. While negative punishment, withholding some desired resource, has a place in obedience training, even this training technique, has no place when trying to housebreak a pup. The only thing that you, the owner, needs to do is to show the pup where you want it to eliminate and reward it richly for eliminating in that location. Simultaneously, deprive the pup of opportunities for inappropriate elimination by being cognizant and ever vigilant. Keep a regular schedule and handle clean up in a matter-of-fact way. Don't omit to use odor neutralizers when cleaning up messes as the odor of a previous soiling incident will attract the pup back to the same site as surely as a heat-seeking missile finds its source of heat. Odor neutralizers destroy the chemicals that cause the smell, thus completely eliminating this particular incitement for indoor elimination.


?h          90% of housebreaking is human effort!!!

?h          Put your puppy on a feeding schedule. Most breeds should be fed twice a day, some three times. Give your puppy all he wants to eat in a half hour. Make feeding times easy for you and the same time every day. Try not to feed the last meal after 6:00 PM. Leave water down all day and pick up at 7:00 PM. If he gets thirsty from playing, put a couple of ice cubes in his dish. It should be enough to quench his thirst, but hopefully not enough to make him wet the bed.

?h          First thing in the morning, take him out of the crate and bring him outside. Try to place his crate as close to the door as is possible. Do not play with your puppy when you are doing potty time as he would rather play with you than do what he is supposed to do. Just stand quietly and wait. If he seems reluctant to move around, walk up and down with him. Sometimes movement stimulates the muscles and gives them the urge to go. Praise and treat immediately!!!

?h          Bring him back in for breakfast. About 10 to 15 minutes after eating, bring him back outside and repeat above. Now you should be safe for an hour or two depending on the age and breed of your puppy. Be sure to provide your puppy with plenty of chew articles and toys. They are much cheaper than furniture.

?h          Take your puppy to the same place every time you go out for potty. He will soon learn what this area is for. Take him out as often as possible every couple of hours if you can and remember to PRAISE, PRAISE, PRAISE when he does something.

?h          If you come into the room and find a piddle or pile, quietly pick it up with a paper towel and put it on the spot outside where you want him to go. This will put his scent in this area and encourage him to go there when you take him out. DO NOT SCOLD, he will not know what you are angry about, he will simply be reacting to your body posture and tone of voice, NOT that 20 minutes ago he had an accident in the house. If you catch him in the act, clap your hands, say no and immediately take him to his spot outside and wait for him to do even a little bit so that you can praise him. He will soon understand that he gets praise when he eliminates in this area.

?h          MOST dogs will not ask to go out, it is a learned response. Some will eventually go to the door and look at it or you. It is your responsibility to WATCH what they are doing. If you ignore it, they will just go do it anywhere and blame you for not responding to their needs. ˇ§I asked, you didnˇ¦t watch and I GOTTA GO NOW!!!!ˇ¨

?h          Try using a word when going outside to do potty. Out, Potty, Hurry Up, or whatever works for you. They will eventually associate this word with doing potty time.

?h          Try not to feed after 6:00 PM. Hopefully your puppy will need to eliminate before bedtime if you do. You would not send your child to bed right after a meal or give them a full glass of water at bedtime and expect them not to have an accident. Donˇ¦t do this to your puppy.

?h          Last thing before bedtime, bring him out to go potty, put him into his crate, give him a biscuit, or a toy or chew treat, say goodnight and leave. If he fusses and you know he has already gone potty, ignore him. If he is quiet for a couple of hours and then fusses, he probably has to go again. Take him out quietly, wait, praise and right back into the crate and go to bed.

?h          Some puppies get confused. They go outside, do nothing, come in and immediately leave a present for you. If this happens to your puppy, put him on a leash, go to the potty area and give him a few minutes. If he does nothing, come back into the house, leave his leash on and donˇ¦t let go. Walk around the house and right back out to the potty area. Repeat, even if it takes ten times, until he does something you can praise him for. He will soon learn that this makes you happy for some reason. Please do this exercise when you KNOW he should have to go, or you may be walking in and out for an hour.

Some puppies can be trained in two weeks, some take two months. It mostly depends on what kind of owner they have and how adept you are at reading the puppyˇ¦s body language. REMEMBER, consistency is the key to success. IT CAN NOT BE OKAY TODAY AND WRONG TOMORROW. This holds true for housebreaking, good manners and any kind of training.

Dental Care for Dogs

Preventative Care for Gingivitis and Periodontal Disease

By Phylameana lila Desy, Guide

According to the American Veterinary Dental Society (AVDS), eighty percent of dogs have periodontal disease by the age of three! Alarming statistics? Yes, and it is known that proper dental care could increase their life by two to five years.

Dental care in dogs has become quite common over the last six years. The AVDS has even selected February as National Pet Dental Health Month. Like humans, dog teeth and gums are also susceptible to the same oral health problems - Gingivitis and Periodontal disease.

Unlike humans, animals rarely get cavities. This is because cavities are primarily caused by the high sugar content of the human diet. Periodontal disease affects both human and mammals alike. Periodontal disease is caused by bacteria and plaque which attach the soft gum tissue of the mouth. The first stage of periodontal disease is gingivitis. This is very common. In this stage, the bacteria have mixed with saliva and formed plaque. The plaque adheres to the teeth and hardens, forming tartar and calculus. These tartar deposits irritate the gum tissue and cause inflammation, swelling and infection. It is this stage that gingivitis is most notable.

Early warning signs of gingivitis are sensitive gum tissue, redness or bleeding gums, trouble eating/chewing and bad breath. Yes, the dreaded "doggy breath"! The breath may take on a sulfur (rotting eggs) odor from the by-products of the bacteria in the mouth. This is often the first sign of gingivitis and serious dental problems.

If caught at this stage, gingivitis is treatable. A thorough dental exam and cleaning most likely will be needed. Many dogs will also most likely need to be put under anesthesia. (This presents its own series of side-effects and dangers as well.) If gingivitis is not treated, it will progress to periodontal disease. Periodontal disease is not treatable. At this stage, there is irreversible bone loss and tooth damage. Roots are also weakened and the animal may experience loose teeth and teeth that simply fall out. Animals may also begin to lose weight. This can lead to other problems associated with improper nutritional intake. Dental treatment will be needed and may result in the extraction of teeth. Again, this will need to be done under anesthesia.

Additionally, the bacteria and infection in the mouth may spread through the bloodstream to cause heart, kidney or liver disease. These diseases can cause serious damage to the organs and lead to premature death.

Periodontal disease is preventable. Like with humans, dogs need regular dental care. The first step is to have your pet examined for existing problems. If needed, your veterinarian can do a dental cleaning. Next, develop an at-home dental care program including a proper diet and mix of dry and wet foods. Diet alone can not prevent dental problems.

Most sources recommend brushing the teeth with pet toothpaste on a gauze or small pet toothbrush. This is the optimal program. If you choose to do this, be sure to select a toothpaste made for pets, avoid fluoridated products and pastes with sugars as one of the top ingredients. Brushing or even wiping the teeth with gauze will be a learning and training experience. With dogs, the process is estimated to take between 8 to 16 weeks before the animal is comfortable with the experience. Start slowly and build each day.

A more practical option for many pet owners may be an oral hygiene solution. There are now pet oral hygiene solutions on the market that can be added to pets' drinking water. These are much easier and more convenient to use and are formulated for animals. Owner compliance with these programs, unlike with daily brushing, is much higher. As the pet drinks, the solution works to repel and retard the plaque and eliminate the bacteria and bacteria by-products. They are odorless and colorless.

Another helpful "trick" is to try one of the healthy dental treats on the market. They help remove the forming tarter. Be sure to check the label for ingredients -- some treats are really "tricks" in that they contain sugars, dyes and other questionable substances.

Once an at-home program is established, be sure to follow-up with regular veterinary exams.


Top Tips for Overcoming Separation Anxiety

 For many dogs, even the slightest change in daily routines can be upsetting. In response, poor Fido may start acting disruptive or destructive, especially when left home alone. He may resort to urinating and defecating indoors, howling, chewing, pacing or trying to escape from the house or yard. When these issues are accompanied by signs of panic, distress or depression, they may indicate your pooch suffers from separation anxiety.
But don't fear?we're here to help! When treating a dog with separation anxiety, the goal is to resolve the underlying issue by teaching him to enjoy?or at least tolerate?being left alone. Our experts have put together a list of top tips for helping your pooch overcome separation anxiety.

Doctor Knows Best: The first step in tackling behavior issues is to rule out any underlying medical problems that might be causing your pet's behavior. For example, if your pet is urinating in the house, he might be suffering from a urinary tract infection, bladder stones, diabetes or kidney disease?all of which can cause urinary incontinence in dogs.

Conquer Fear: If your pooch suffers mild separation anxiety, counter conditioning?or helping your dog associate being alone with something good, like a tasty treat?might reduce or resolve the problem. To develop this kind of association, offer your dog a food-dispensing toy  every time you leave the house.

Dogs Need Jobs: Providing lots of physical and mental stimulation is a vital part of treating many behavior problems, especially those involving anxiety. Exercise can enrich your dog's life, decrease stress and provide appropriate outlets for normal behavior. Plus, a tired dog doesn't have much excess energy to burn when he's left alone!

Prepare for Departure: Many dogs know when you're about to leave the house and will get anxious or prevent your departure altogether. One way to tackle "predeparture anxiety" is to teach your dog that when you pick up your keys or put on your coat, it doesn't always mean you're leaving. For example, put on your boots and coat, and then just sit down and watch TV instead of leaving.

Take Baby Steps: If your dog's anxiety falls more on the severe side of things, try getting your pooch used to being alone by starting small or "desensitizing" him to the cause of his fear. Begin by introducing several short periods of separation that don't produce anxiety, and then gradually increase time spent apart over the course of a few weeks.

Together We Stand: Any treatment for separation anxiety requires that your dog never experiences the full-blown version of whatever provokes his anxiety or fear. Avoid leaving your dog alone except during desensitization sessions. If possible, take your dog to work or arrange for a family member or dog sitter to come to your home during the day. 

Keep it Mellow: All greetings?hellos and goodbyes?should be conducted in a very calm manner. When saying goodbye, just give your dog a pat on the head, say goodbye and leave. Similarly, when arriving home, say hello to your dog and then don't pay any more attention to him until he's calm and relaxed.

Say No to Tough Love: Anxious behaviors are not the result of disobedience or spite, so please don't scold or punish your dog if he doesn't overcome his fear quickly. If you punish him, he may become even more upset and the problem could get worse. Be patient, and work with your pet until he feels comfortable and enjoys spending time alone.

For more information about helping your pooch overcome separation anxiety, please visit  virtual behaviorist.

1. Please Don't Go! Coping with Separation Anxiety in Pets

When your dog suffers from separation anxiety, leaving the house can be just as stressful for you as it is for him. No one likes to see a beloved pet upset?plus, any time away from home might be spent worrying what kind of mess awaits your return. Will your pooch tear up the sofa? Chew the walls? Pee on the carpet? Shake, drool and bark for hours?

Overcoming disorders like separation anxiety takes time, patience and consistency, but it can be done! Don't wait any longer: take control of your dog's happiness?and your own?just in time for summer travel season. Follow the advice of ASPCA animal behaviorists, and next time you drop off Fido at a friend's house or the boarding kennel, you'll feel sweet relief knowing that you miss him more than he misses you.

·  Doctor Knows Best
The first step in tackling behavior issues is to rule out any underlying medical problems that might be causing your pet's behavior. For example, if your pet is urinating in the house, he might be suffering from a urinary tract infection, bladder stones, diabetes or kidney disease.

·  Keep It Mellow
All greetings?hellos and goodbyes?should be conducted in a very calm manner. When saying goodbye, just give your dog a pat on the head, say goodbye and leave. Similarly, when arriving home, say hello to your dog and then don't pay any more attention to him until he's calm and relaxed.

·  Dogs Need Jobs
Providing lots of physical and mental stimulation is a vital part of treating many behavior problems, especially those involving anxiety. Exercise can enrich your dog's life, decrease stress and provide appropriate outlets for normal behavior. Plus, a tired dog doesn't have much excess energy to burn when he's left alone!



Recognizing an Emergency in Dogs: Who and When to Call

By: PetPlace Veterinarians

Phone numbers for your veterinarian and local emergency clinic should always be on hand.

When to Worry

If you're a typical pet owner, you have probably faced this quandary: Your beloved companion may be ill, but you don't know whether you're overreacting or whether you should bring her in to a veterinarian. And she can't tell you if something is bothering her, or how serious it is.

The simplest way to determine if it is an emergency is if you are concerned, contact a veterinarian. The veterinary assistants and veterinarian can help you determine if an emergency visit is necessary or prudent.

Performing a brief at-home physical exam may also help you. If you see any abnormalities, consult your veterinarian. For mild symptoms, scheduling an examination may be enough. But you should be aware of the signs that require immediate care. These include:

?h Seizures

?h Difficulty breathing

?h Non-responsive or comatose

?h Uncontrollable bleeding

?h Extreme pain

?h Continued vomiting, especially with blood

?h If your pet was struck by a car or some other vehicle

?h Ingesting poisonous material or improper medication

?h Bloody stools

?h Collapse

You should have your veterinarian's phone number and address handy in case of an emergency, along with his/her pager. You should also have the phone number, address and directions to the nearest veterinary emergency clinic.

If you cannot contact your veterinarian or he cannot help you, consult a local veterinary emergency clinic. If all else fails, look in your telephone book and try to find a veterinarian that is available to help.

Who Should I Call?

?h If you notice an injured animal, try to contact your veterinarian for instruction and assistance.

?h If your veterinarian is not available, try to contact a local veterinary emergency center or 24-hour veterinary hospital.

?h Some local humane societies or animal shelters have ambulatory services if you are unable to transport the animal for care.

?h Animal control officers have equipment and supplies to help transport an injured animal.

?h Police officers can sometimes be helpful if the injured animal is posing a risk to people (such as affecting traffic flow).

?h If there is a tag on the injured animal, contact the owner to inform them of what has occurred and where the animal is being taken.

?h For wild animals, contact an area wildlife rescue or rehabilitation center or conservation department.



Little Red Riding Hood Meets a Dog

Little Red Riding Hood is skipping thru the forest road
when she sees the big bad dog crouched down behind a log.

"My, what big eyes you have, Mr. Pooch."

The dog jumps up and runs away.

Further down the road Little Red Riding Hood sees the big
dog again and this time he is crouched behind a bush.

"My what big ears you have, Mr. Pooch."

Again the dog jumps up and runs away.

About 1/4 mile down the road Little Red Riding Hood sees the
dog again and this time he is crouched down behind a rock.

"My what big teeth you have Mr. Pooch."

With that the dog jumps up and screams, "Will you knock it off,
I'm trying to poop!"

Why Does a Dog Have So Many Friends

The reason a dog has so many friends is that he wags his tail instead of his tongue. ~~Anonymous

Don't accept your dog's admiration as conclusive evidence that you are wonderful. ~~Ann Landers

A dog is the only thing on earth that loves you more than he loves himself. ~~Josh Billings

The average dog is a nicer person than the average person. ~~Andrew A Rooney

We give dogs time we can spare, space we can spare and love we can spare. And in return, dogs give us their all. It's the best deal man has ever made. ~~M Facklam

Dogs love their friends and bite their enemies, quite unlike people, who are incapable of pure love and always have to mix love and hate. ~~Sigmund Freud

If I have any beliefs about immortality, it is that certain dogs I have known will go to heaven, and very, very few persons. ~~James Thurber

A dog teaches a boy fidelity, perseverance, and to turn around three times before lying down. ~~Robert Benchley

If there are no dogs in Heaven, then when I die I want to go where they went.~~Will Rogers

Dogs need to sniff the ground; it's how they keep abreast of current events. The ground is a giant dog newspaper, containing all kinds of late-breaking dog news items, which, if they are especially urgent, are often continued in the next yard. ~~Dave Barry

Anybody who doesn't know what soap tastes like never washed a dog. ~~Franklin P Jones

My dog is worried about the economy because Alpo is up to $3.00 a can. That's almost $21.00 in dog money. ~~Joe Weinstein

Outside of a dog, a book is probably man's best friend. ~~Groucho Marx

There is no psychiatrist in the world like a puppy licking your face! ~~Ben Williams

Women and cats will do as they please, and men and dogs should relax and get used to the idea. ~~Robert A Heinlein



Dear God:       

 Let me give you a list of just some of the things I must remember to be a good Dog.

1.) I will not eat the cats' food before they eat it or after they throw it up.
2.) I will not roll on dead seagulls, fish, crabs, etc., just because I like the way they smell.
3.) The Litter Box is not a cookie jar.
4.) The sofa is not a 'face towel'.

5.) The garbage collector is not stealing our stuff.
6.) I will not play tug-of-war with Dad's underwear when he's on the toilet.
7.) Sticking my nose into someone's crotch is an unacceptable way of saying 'hello'.
8.) I don't need to suddenly stand straight up when I'm under the coffee table.
9.) I must shake the rainwater out of my fur before entering the house - not after.
10.)  I will not come in from outside and immediately drag my butt.
11.)  I will not sit in the middle of the living room and lick my crotch.
12.) The cat is not a 'squeaky toy' so when I play with him and he makes that noise, it's usually not a good thing.

P.S. Dear God: When I get to Heaven may I have my testicles back?




Dear Dogs,

The dishes with the paw print are yours and contain your food. The other dishes are mine and contain my food. Please note, placing a paw print in the middle of my plate and food does not stake a claim for it becoming your food and dish, nor do I find that aesthetically pleasing in the slightest.

The stairway was not designed by NASCAR and is not a racetrack. Beating me to the bottom is not the object. Tripping me doesn't help because I fall faster than you can run.

I cannot buy anything bigger than a king sized
bed. I am very sorry about this. Do not think I will continue sleeping on the couch to ensure your comfort. Dogs can actually curl up in a ball when they sleep. It is not necessary to sleep perpendicular to each other stretched out to the fullest extent possible.

I also know that sticking tails straight out and having tongues hanging out the other end to maximize space is nothing but sarcasm.

For the last time, there is not a secret exit from the
bathroom. If by some miracle I beat you there and manage to get the door shut, it is not necessary to claw, whine, and try to turn the knob or get your paw under the edge and try to pull the door open. I must exit through the same door I entered. Also, I have been using the bathroom for years -- canine attendance is not required.

The proper order is kiss me, and then go smell the other dog's butt. I cannot stress this enough!

To pacify you, my dear
pets, I have posted the following message on our front door:

I also know that sticking tails straight out and having tongues hanging out the other end to maximize space is nothing but sarcasm.

 For the last time, there is not a secret exit from the bathroom. If by some miracle I beat you there and manage to get the door shut, it is not necessary to claw, whine, and try to turn the knob or get your paw under the edge and try to pull the door open. I must exit through the same door I entered. Also, I have been using the bathroom for years -- canine attendance is not required.

The proper order is kiss me, and then go smell the other dog's butt. I cannot stress this enough!

To pacify you, my dear
pets, I have posted the following message on our front door:


To All Non-Pet Owners Who Visit & Like to Complain About Our

1.They live here. You don't.

2. If you don't want their hair on your clothes, stay off the furniture. (That's why they call it 'fur'niture.)

3. I like my pets a lot better than I like most people. To you, it's an animal. To me, he/she is an adopted son/daughter who is short, hairy, walks on all fours and doesn't speak clearly.

Yours truly,

Your Pet Parents



Their gentle, soft eyes give you a look of innocence,
Their tails wag as you rub their tummy,
They help the blind at times,
They're a part of your family,
They protect,
They help,
They love,
When you're sad,
They embrace you in their loving care,
When you start to laugh,
They gently caress your face with their tongue,
They love you,
But don't love baths,
They sometimes help people survive,
Though times hard,
They are triumphant in helping you,
They are man's best friend.


Never pass up the opportunity to go for a joyride.

Allow the experience of fresh air and the wind in
your face to be pure ecstasy.

When loved ones come home, always run to greet them.

When it's in your best interest, practice obedience.

Let others know when they've invaded your territory.

Take naps and stretch before rising.

Run, romp and play daily.

Eat with gusto and enthusiasm.

Be loyal.

Never pretend to be something you're not.

If what you want lies buried, dig until you find it.

When someone is having a bad day, be silent, sit close
by and nuzzle them gently.

Thrive on attention and let people touch you.

Avoid biting when a simple growl will do.

On hot days, drink lots of water and lay under a shady tree.

When you're happy, dance around and wag your entire

No matter how often you're scolded, don't buy into the
guilt thing and pout... run right back and make friends.

Bond with your pack.

Delight in the simple joy of a long walk.

If you can start the day without caffeine,

If you can get going without pep pills,

If you can always be cheerful, ignoring aches and pains,

If you can resist complaining and boring people with your troubles,

If you can eat the same food everyday and be grateful for it,

If you can understand when your loved ones are too busy
to give you any time,

If you can overlook it when those you love take it out on you
when no fault of yours, something goes wrong,

If you can take criticism and blame without resentment,

If you can ignore a friend's limited education and never correct him,

If you can resist treating a rich friend better than a poor friend,

If you can face the world without lies and deceit,

If you can conquer tension without medical help,

If you can relax without liquor,
If you can sleep without the aid of drugs,

It you can say honestly that deep in your heart you have
no prejudice against creed, color, religion or politics,

Then, my friend you are almost as good as your dog.

Author Unknown

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This is


I Am Your Puppy

I am your Puppy, and I will love you until the end of the Earth, but please
know a few things about me.
I am a Puppy, this means that my intelligence and capacity for learning are
the same as an 8-month-old child. I am a Puppy; I will chew EVERYTHING I can
get my teeth on. This is how I explore and learn about the world. Even HUMAN
children put things in their mouths. It's up to you to guide me to what is
mine to chew and what is not.
I am a Puppy; I cannot hold my bladder for longer than 1 - 2 hours. I cannot
"feel" that I need to poop until it is actually beginning to come out. I
cannot vocalize nor tell you that I need to go, and I cannot have "bladder and
bowel control" until 6 - 9 months. Do not punish me if you have not let me out
for 3 hours and I tinkle. It is your fault. As a Puppy, it is wise to
remember that I NEED to go potty after: eating, sleeping, playing, drinking and
around every 2 - 3 hours in addition. If you want me to sleep through the
night, then do not give me water after 7 or 8 p.m. A crate will help me to
housebreak easier, and will avoid you being mad at me. I am a Puppy, accidents WILL happen, please be patient with me! In time I will learn.
I am a Puppy, I like to play. I will run around, and chase imaginary
monsters, and chase your feet and your toes and 'attack' you, and chase fuzzballs,
other pets, and small kids. It is play; it's what I do. Do not be mad at me
or expect me to be sedate, mellow and sleep all day. If my high energy level
is too much for you, maybe you should consider an older rescue from a shelter
or rescue group. My play is beneficial, use your wisdom to guide me in my
play with appropriate toys, and activities like chasing a rolling ball, or
gentle tug games, or plenty of chew toys for me. If I nip you too hard, talk to me
in "dog talk", by giving a loud YELP, I will usually get the message, as
this is how dogs communicate with one another. If I get too rough, simply ignore
me for a few moments, or put me in my crate with an appropriate chew toy.

I am a Puppy; hopefully you would not yell, hit, strike, kick or beat an
8-month-old human infant, so please do not do the same to me. I am delicate, and
also very impressionable. If you treat me harshly now, I will grow up
learning to fear being hit, spanked, kicked or beaten.
Instead, please guide me with encouragement and wisdom. For instance, if I
am chewing something wrong, say, "No chew!" and hand me a toy I CAN chew.
Better yet, pick up ANYTHING that you do not want me to get into. I can't tell
the difference between your old sock and your new sock, or an old sneaker and
your $200 Nikes.
I am a Puppy, and I am a creature with feelings and drives much like your
own, but yet also very different. Although I am NOT a human in a dog suit, nor
am I an unfeeling robot who can instantly obey your every whim. I truly DO
want to please you, and be a part of your family, and your life. You got me (I
hope) because you want a loving partner and companion, so do not relegate me
to the backyard when I get bigger, do not judge me harshly but instead mold
me with gentleness and guidelines and training into the kind of family member
you want me to be.
I am a Puppy and I am not perfect, and I know you are not perfect either. I
love you anyway. So please, learn all you can about training, and puppy
behaviors and caring for me from your Veterinarian, books on dog care and even
researching on the computer! Learn about my particular breed and it's
"characteristics", it will give you understanding and insight into WHY I do all the
things I do. Please teach me with love, patience, the right way to behave and
socialize me with training in a puppy class or obedience class, we will BOTH
have a lot of fun together.
I am a Puppy and I want more than anything to love you, to be with you, and
to please you. Won't you please take time to understand how I work? We are
the same you and I, in that we both feel hunger, pain, thirst, discomfort,
fear, but yet we are also very different and must work to understand one
another's language, body signals, wants and needs. Some day I will be a handsome
dog, hopefully one you can be proud of and one that you will love as much as I love you.
And I do not believe a human CAN love as much as our dogs love us.

House Rules



1. The dog is not allowed in the house.


2. Okay, the dog is allowed in the house, but only in certain rooms.


3.  The dog is allowed in all rooms, but has to stay off the furniture.


4.  The dog can get on the old furniture only, but has to stay off the new couch.


5.  Fine, the dog is allowed on all the furniture, but is not allowed to sleep with the humans on the    bed.


6.  Okay, the dog is allowed on the bed, but only by invitation.


7.  The dog can sleep on the bed whenever he wants, but not under the covers.


8.  The dog can sleep under the covers by invitation only.


9.  The dog can sleep under the covers every night.


10.  Humans must ask permission to sleep under the covers with the dog.


House Rules!



My Dog's House


This is my dogs' house

They Live here

You'll find they roam freely

From the front to the rear

I'm pleased you came to visit

My dogs are also glad you're here

I hope that in their own way

They bring you a degree of cheer

But if my dogs upset you

Or if you simply find them a bore

Remember, this is my dogs' house

And I'll gladly show you the door



The Puppy Dog Place: If you're a proud puppy owner, or simply love dogs, you'll enjoy visiting! There's lots of tips and advice to help you raise a happy, healthy puppy. Covers housebreaking, feeding, grooming, training, health care and much more. Tons of fun stuff for dog lovers too!.

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