Parvo or is it Campylobacter?

  Campylobacter is a form of food poison.  It can be passed from people to dogs and then back to people again.  It is also referred to as "Show Crud" as it is very common in show dogs. 

This disease is becoming more wide spread.  As the winter begins to pass into early spring each year, a new wave of deaths occur from this.  And each year, the question comes up again: "Is this a new strain of Parvo?" and each time there are 100 different replies. 

This disease is so similar to Parvo, that some dogs have tested in the low positive for Parvo.  In most cases they DO NOT have Parvo and it has been recommended that three Parvo tests are needed to exclude Parvo.  This disease seems to move from the West to the East through the dog shows. 

It is medically known as CAMPYLOBACTERIOSIS, the name of the organism causing this is Campylobacter Jejuni.  This disease can be tested for specifically, though some vets don't know about it.  Bring it to their attention that you might have an effected dog that appears to have Parvo, but in your mind know that could not be possible, have them tested for Campylobacter.  It is important to note that this disease can be transferred between humans, dogs, cats and other livestock.  Many vets today are reporting that a cure for Parvo has been established when they actually are treating and curing Campylobacter and don't realise it.

 The Campylobacter Jejuni is a Gram-Negative, slender curved, and motile rod.  It is a species of bacteria that resembles small tightly coiled spirals.  Its organisms are known to cause abortion in sheep and fever and stomach inflammation in man and may be associated with enteric diseases of calves, lambs and other animals.  A genus of bacteria found in the reproductive organs, intestinal tract and oral cavity of animals and man.  Some species are pathogenic.  It is a microaerophilic organism, which means it has a requirement of reduced levels of oxygen.  It is relatively fragile and sensitive to environmental stresses (e.g. 21% oxygen, drying, heating, disinfectants and acidic conditions).  It causes more disease than Shigella spp and Salmonella spp combined. (Taken from the US FDA "Bad Bug Book") It is also known as Campylobacter enteritis or gastroenteritis.  It can also be diagnosed as Sirochete or Giardia diarrhoea.

 TESTING:   Diagnosis is direct fecal on a VERY fresh (still warm, so bacteria are still alive) sample, mixed with saline and examined microscopically.  There is usually a decrease in normal bacterial numbers and motility.  Blood testing will result in the low positive for Parvo.  Tests are not conclusive, so if a low Parvo test is shown start treatment immediately!

 INCUBATION TIME: Its incubation period is reported to be anywhere from 2 to 10 days.

 SYMPTOMS:    These can mimic parvo.  The diarrhoea does not always have the foul odour. It usually progresses as follows.  Begins with mucus-covered solid stools, loose stools, progresses to diarrhoea, profuse diarrhoea, the squirts, depressed appetite with or without vomiting.  The diarrhoea may be watery or sticky and can contain (but not always) blood.  These symptoms can be minor to severe.  Some animals hardly show any symptoms, while others can become fatally dehydrated.  Also seen are temperature drops and shock followed by death and all within 12-24 hours.  In very young puppies you will hear them cry quite loudly and nothing will comfort them, then respiratory problems occur.  Puppies need attention immediately as the fatality rate is high

SOURCE OF INFECTION: Fecal matter, non-chlorinated water, such as streams, ponds or puddles ' food poisoning from food or from a human who has food poison, even a light case.  This disease can also be transmitted to these areas by our common fly, flitting from one host to another.  The bacteria is also found in raw or under cooked meat  (barfers be aware please) .  For all intents and purposes for the Dog Show Crud, it is transmitted in public X-Pens and public elimination areas.  Some also say through urine, saliva via contact, or through the air.  This bacteria reproduces at a rapid rate.

TREATMENT.  As soon as any of the symptoms are seen, see your vet immediately for the proper tests, because the disease progresses so rapidly.  Re-hydration may be required within a few hours of the onset.  This is the worst scenario. It could be that the dog will have a very mild case and be treated at home with anti-diarrhoeal medication and antibiotics but it is not worth it to take the chance.  Most cases are not as drastic/catastrophic, clinically as Parvo if treatment is done in a timely manner.  The younger the dog the more serious the case.  Drugs for treatment are  Tetracycline, Erythromycin and some have had success using Cephalexin. 

(In humans you will also see fever, abdominal pain, nausea, headache and muscle pain. This illness usually occurs 2-5  days after ingestion of contaminated food or water and up to 10 days after. Illness generally lasts 7-10 days, but   relapses are not uncommon. Most infections are self-   limiting and are not treated with antibiotics. However,   treatment with Erythromycin does reduce the length of time that infected individuals shed the bacteria in their faeces.) 

Many veterinarians have recommended that if you have a dog with diarrhoea, cramping, vomiting, etc., and has been  to a dog show, camping, groomer, park, or any public place, or if any one in your family has been ill with diarrhoea or  food poison like symptoms, etc., that the dog be seen by your vet as soon as possible to diagnose the problem and  treat it accordingly.

(Footnote: If only one dog in your household has been affected ALL dogs in the house should be treated together)

Intestinal coccidiosis is caused by infection with
any one of the coccidia species: Isospora,
Besnoitia, Hammondia, Sarcocystis,
Toxoplasma, or Cryptosporidium.  Infection
with Isospora is most common in dogs.  
Infection occurs when infective eggs are
ingested from a contaminated environment, or
an infected transport host is ingested.  Rodents
and other small prey can carry coccidia,
making ingestion of their tissues and feces
infective.  Infection with coccidia can also occur
when uncooked meat from infected herbivores
such as cows or sheep is ingested.  After
ingestion of ocysts, the incubation period is
usually 6 to 10 days.
Most vets will be quick to tell you that it is from
unsanitary conditions, but that is not always the
case.  The presence of coccidia in the feces of
dogs is fairly common.  Up to 72% of dogs may
have some level of infection with coccidia.  
Multiple dog kennels are most prone to
infection.  The major sign of coccidiosis is
diarrhea which is soft or watery, and may
contain mucus, blood, and shreds of intestinal
epithelium.  Vomiting, dehydration, loss of
appetite, weight loss, and decreased activity
level are other signs associated with coccidia.  
Diarrhea is typically most severe in puppies
under 4 months of age.  Adult dogs may harbor
coccidia with few clinical signs, but serve as a
source of infection to puppies.  Diagnosis is
made by microscopically identifying oocysts in
feces.
Strict sanitation is important for prevention of
infection.  All cages and kennel runs should be
cleaned with steam or a strong sodium
hydroxide solution to kill oocysts.  Prompt
removal of feces helps reduce exposure to
infective feces. Elimination of rodents and
rodent feces will reduce coccidia in the
environment.  Any meat that is fed should be
thoroughly cooked.  Older dogs that may be
asymptomatic carriers should be kept separate
from young puppies.
Puppies showing clinical signs of coccidiosis
should be treated orally with sulfadimethoxine
(Albon or Bactrovet) at 25 to 30 mg/lb body
weight per day for 10 days.  Amprolium (Corid)
is not approved for use in dogs, but has been
used effectively in kennel operations.  
One-quarter teaspoon of 20% powder per four
puppies is mixed with the puppy food for 10
days, or 1.5 to 2 tablespoons of 9.6%
amprolium solution can be mixed with one
gallon of free-choice water.  With severe cases
of coccidiosis, secondary intestinal bacterial
infections are common, and treatment may
need to be prolonged.

Liver Shunt This condition is often referred to as a "liver shunt" but the current favored term appears to be portosystemic shunt. These have also been referred to by more exact terms since there are specific types of shunts that vary slightly. The broad categories are extrahepatic and intrahepatic shunts, depending on whether or not the shunt occurs in the liver or outside of it. Specific types of shunts are patent ductus venosus, portal-azygous, portocaval (portal-abdominal vena cava), atresia (lack of development) of the portal vein and acquired shunts that occur due to changes in blood pressure or circulation. Yorkshire terriers are reported to have a higher than normal incidence of liver shunts. They are reported to be more likely to have extra-hepatic shunts which is good since they are easier to repair. What are the signs? Most shunts cause recognizable clinical signs by the time a dog is a young adult but once in a while one is diagnosed at a later time in life. Since the severity of the condition can vary widely depending on how much blood flow is diverted past the liver it is possible for a lot of variation in clinical signs and time of onset of signs to occur. Often, this condition is recognized after a puppy fails to grow, making an early diagnosis pretty common, too. Signs of portosystemic shunts include poor weight gain, sensitivity to sedatives (especially diazepam), depression, head pressing (pushing the head against a solid object), seizures, weakness, salivation, vomiting, poor appetite, increased drinking and urinating, balance problems and frequent urinary tract disease or early onset of bladder stones. If the signs of problems increase dramatically after eating this is a strong supportive sign of a portosystemic shunt. How is Liver Shunt diagnosed? This is frustrating since there is not a test for this condition. There was a "definitive" test and there is almost one - special dyes injected into the liver circulation that show up on X-rays can outline the problem pretty clearly. Most of the time. But this is a pretty invasive test making it a poor choice for "screening" purposes. There are a number of possible abnormalities that might point towards a portosystemic shunt on routine labwork, including low BUN (blood urea nitrogen), low albumin, mild anemia, increases in ALT (serum alanine aminotransferase) or ALKP (serum alkaline phosphatase). If these hints are present, it would be a good idea to test the serum bile acid levels prior to eating and after eating. If this test is supportive of poor liver function then it may be a good idea to consider ultrasonagraphy and dye contrast X-rays. How is it treated? So far in my research I haven't found a cure for Liver shunt besides surgery for portosystemic shunts. As far as I know, dogs with extrahepatic shunts (occurring outside the liver itself) is easier to do than surgery in dogs with intrahepatic (inside the liver) shunts. If you know of a different cure please let me know. CLINICAL DIAGNOSIS OF HEPATIC PORTOSYSTEMIC SHUNTS by Larry Snyder, DVM Clinical Signs: Most dogs will be diagnosed with port-systemic shunts under one year of age, but dogs as old as eight have been diagnosed with the condition. Animals are usually stunted, thin, depressed, have trouble gaining weight, and are usually characterized by the owners as chronic "poor doers". In most affected dogs there will be some degree of behavioral signs ranging from listlessness, apathy, or depression to more severe signs of circling, head pressing, stupor, drooling, blindness, or convulsions, some leading to coma. These behavioral changes are due to an accumulation of toxins (especially ammonia) that affect the brain causing a condition called Hepatic Encephalopathy. These toxins are most abundant in the blood stream following the dog eating, especially a high protein meal, & may remain high for hours afterward. Not all dogs with the shunt will show this meal associated behavioral change, but in 25% of the affected dogs that do, the diagnosis becomes clearer. A high percent of affected animals show an intolerance to anesthetics or tranquilizers, & will show increased recovery times following use of these products. Even anti-convulsants used to control seizures may be potentially dangerous if allowed to concentrate in a dog with functional shunt. Approximately 75% of affected individuals will show digestive system symptoms including poor appetite, ascites, vomiting, drooling, diarrhea, or occasionally deranged appetite (eating paper, etc.). Urinary system symptoms may include increased thirst and urination, & in a majority of porto-systemic shunt cases, there will be crystals or stones formed in the urinary tract. These crystals will be either uric acid or ammonium urate (ammonium biurate or thorn-apple crystals.). There can be bladder stones formed or crystals may be noted on the hair around the prepuce or vulva. Laboratory Findings: Routine performed serum chemistries are fairly nonspecific toward confirming the diagnosis of porto-systemic shunts, but there may be a decreased total protein (primarily albumin), decreased blood glucose, decreased cholesterol, & decreased blood urea nitrogen (BUN). The uric acid levels may be elevated in a significant number of affected individuals. Acid levels are extremely important in the diagnostic screening of symptomatic potential shunts. Fasting and 2-hr. post meal blood samples are evaluated for bile acid levels. In virtually all porto-systemic shunts there will be a significant rise in the bile acid levels over normal. The use of bile acids in screening clinically normal dogs for liver shunts is not currently being advised due to the variation of normal bile acid levels in Yorkshire Terriers, & other breeds as well. Reports of recent vaccination with modified-live vaccines causing high serum bile acid levels in normal animals have not been confirmed as of this time. Liver function testing with Bromosulfaphthalein (BSP) or ammonia tolerance testing are sensitive & reliable if performed correctly. These tests measure the liver's ability to excrete/detoxify known agents, and thus measure liver function accurately. Radiography. Radiography is one of the most important methods of establishing a diagnosis of porto-systemic shunt, & is currently the only universally accepted method of confirming a shunt, short of major surgery. Injection of a radiopaque dye into the spleen (Splenoportograpy) will show the shunt on radiographs & allow accurate assessment for surgical correction. Nuclear Medicine. The placement of a radiopharmaceutical agent (radioisotope) specific for the liver into the colon for absorption through the mucosa has been gaining favor because of its noninvasive diagnostic value. This procedure requires expensive equipment & the diagnosis is based on the distribution of the radionuclide in the lung or heart compared to that in the liver. This procedure also does not identify the exact location of the shunt for surgical correction if required. Ultrasound. Until recently, ultrasound was fairly unreliable for nonsurgical diagnosis of porto-systemic shunts. With the advent of Color Flow Ultrasound, there is the potential for diagnosis of this condition on non-anesthetized animals. At the present time, this technology appears to be the diagnostic procedure of choice. If currently undertaken research confirms its value, Color Doppler Ultrasound will soon be the preferred screening and diagnostic tool. At the present time, Hepatic Porto-Systemic shunts are considered to be UNQUESTIONABLY genetic by some of the leading canine experts, but the mode has not been identified at the present time; research is being conducted at Michigan State University to identify this pattern. Genetic disorders in dogs can spread relatively rapidly if a dog, whether affected or a carrier, is a well-respected animal in either conformation or ability, and is used extensively for breeding. This is especially true in the case of the male that can produce hundreds of offspring during his breeding life. If the cause of such a condition can be discovered, then a working strategy can be implemented to control and eliminate the disorder. The Yorkshire Terrier Club of America Foundation, Inc. is currently funding research into both the genetic nature of the problem & into the use of Color Flow Doppler Ultrasound as a diagnostic & screening tool. These steps will hopefully become the basis for setting up an open registry for Yorkshire Terriers & other affected breeds to hopefully eliminate, or at least minimize the problem within each breed. For More information contact the YTCA Sources ?Richard, Michael, DVM Q&A-DR Mike Retrieved February 1998 from the WWW http://www.vetinfo.com/Q&A.html ?Shumsky, Terri (1993) How to buy your Toy Dog, and Raise it Expensively California Creations by Terri. ?Snyder, Larry D.V.M. YTCA Foundation My name is Karen Tobias and I am a surgeon at University of Tennessee College of Veterinary Medicine. I have been studying and surgically correcting portosystemic shunts for 15 years. I have recently received funding from the AKC Canine Health Foundation and the YTCA to study genetics of normal Yorkies and Yorkies with liver shunts. The Canine Health Foundation of the American Kennel Club and the Yorkshire Terrier Club of America have joined forces to investigate the cause of one of the breed's most heartbreaking diseases: Congenital Portosystemic Shunts. Portosystemic shunts, or "PSS", are abnormal blood vessels that form a bypass around the liver. Toxic blood that is normally filtered and cleansed by the liver is shunted to the heart and brain, resulting in depression, behavior changes, poor growth rate, and other signs of illness in affected dogs. One out of every seven Yorkshire Terriers presented to Washington State University College of Veterinary Medicine for any reason was found to have a portosystemic liver shunt! The hereditary nature of this birth defect has already been established in Irish Wolfhounds, Maltese, and other breeds. Many breeders assume the disease is genetic in Yorkshire Terriers as well; however, this has yet to be proven. Goals of our study: Our study will serve as the first step in identifying a genetic cause for Congenital Portosystemic Shunts. By evaluating pedigrees of affected and unaffected Yorkshire Terriers we will try to answer the following questions: Are liver shunts genetic? Do liver shunts occur equally throughout the breed or is there an increased risk of portosystemic shunts with certain ancestors? What is the risk of inheriting a portosystemic shunt? And, is it likely that we will be able to isolate a carrier gene? If a genetic basis for PSS is found, the information gained can then be used to pursue genetic testing for the condition. Dr. Karen Tobias can be reach at : Dr. Karen Tobias, Department of Small Animal Clinical Sciences, PO Box 1071, Knoxville TN, 37901-1071. Luxating Patellas Luxating is a fancy word for dislocating. Patella is your dog's "knee", the joint on the front of her hind leg. So a luxating patella is a dislocating knee or trick knee, a knee that keeps slipping out of its socket. This can happen in yorkies with weak ligaments, tendons, and/or muscles. It can also happen in Yorkies whose kneecap groove is too narrow or shallow. The knee usually slips inwardly, toward her body, and locks so that your Yorkie can't bend her leg. Suspect luxating patella if your Yorkie sometimes lifts one hind leg while she is running, or if she often moves both rear legs at the same time, like a hopping bunny. Sometimes the knee slips only for a few moments, then slides back into place. Sometimes the knee slips out and stays out, and your Yorkie will hold her leg off the ground and limp, perhaps tucking her thigh into her body. Luxation may occur in one knee, or in both. It is seen in many other toy breeds, and in both sexes, though it seems to be more common in females. No matter how firm the knees seem as puppies, toy dogs are liable to injure their knees. Is luxation serious? There are four degrees (grades) of luxation: I. The knee only slips out when the vet manipulates it. II. The knee luxates occasionally when your Yorkie is walking or running. She may not seem to mind much, or she may shriek, but it usually slides back by itself as she continues moving. Or you can slip it back manually (ask the vet to show you how). III. The knee luxates frequently and causes chronic lameness. Even when you put it back manually, it doesn't seem to last long. IV. The knee luxates, stays that way, and you can't put it back into its socket. This grade is very rare. How is luxation treated? ?The first treatment should be to crated for a week or two and supervise the activity - no jumping. ?Non-steroidal anti-inflammatories (like Rimadyl). These will hide the symptoms, but do absolutely nothing to strengthen or correct the knee. ?Steroidal anti-inflammatories. These are extremely damaging to the immune system, have awful side effects (short and long term), and should never be used. ?Surgery. Surgery is seldom the answer and should only be done by an orthopedic surgeon. Call the American College of Veterinary Surgeons at (301) 718-6504 and ask for a referral to an orthopedic specialist or college of veterinary medicine in your state. If surgery is your choice, that dog will have problems down the road with arthritis from the surgery. In the opinion of most vets, surgery is overkill for Grade I or II luxating patella. I would only go with surgery on a Grade IV luxation, or on a Grade III that did not respond to natural treatment. Surgery costs about five hundred dollars per leg, it is uncomfortable for your Yorkie, and there is a 50% chance that some degree of luxation will return. Natural ways to treat your Yorkie: ?Feed fresh foods. ?Keep your Yorkie lean. Fat dogs have to carry more weight on their weak leg joint. ?Moderate exercise, walking up slight inclines (gentle hills), will strengthen the muscle groups around the patella. ?Vitamin C is one of the building blocks of strong ligaments and connective tissue. Glyco-flex and Glucosamine are nutritional products packed with minerals, amino acids, enzymes, and lubricating agents. They build cartilage and cushioning fluid in injured joints, and help heal damaged connective tissue. What causes luxating patella? Occasionally it's caused by an injury, but in the absence of such proof, the weak tendons and/or shallow kneecap groove of luxating patella is considered hereditary. Never breed a Yorkie with any degree of luxation (even a "wiggly" knee), whether it has been repaired or not. Fixing the knee doesn't fix the genes that caused the problem. OFA Certification The Orthopedic Foundation of America will issue registration numbers to dogs whose patellas have been x-rayed by a vet, forwarded to the OFA, and found to be normal. This condition is so common in Yorkies that we believe it is essential that all breeders start doing these x-rays before breeding. Then you will be able to INSIST on seeing the OFA certificate for each parent before buying a Yorkie puppy. It will be one more way to pick out the responsible breeders from the rest of the pack. For More Information visit the Orthopedic Foundation of America Sources ?Chihuahua Kingdom Retrieved February 1998 from the WWW http://3lbdogs.com/wellness/ ?Shumsky, Terri (1993) How to buy your Toy Dog, and Raise it Expensively California Creations by Terri. L'egg Perthes Legg-Perthes, also called Legg-Calve-Perthes (LCP) disease, is a disease of the hip joints of small breeds of dogs. The head of the femur (the ball part of the ball and socket) begins to die and disintegrate. This causes limping, pain, and eventually arthritis. It usually appears between 6-12 months of age. It is treated surgically by removing the head of the femur and letting the muscles form a "false joint." It really does work. The dogs recuperate very well from surgery. Legg-Calve-Perthes Disease (aseptic or a vascular necrosis of the femoral head) Avascular necrosis occurs when the bone that makes up the ball portion of the hip is damaged from lack of blood supply. The reasons this occurs are not clear. Since a higher incidence of this disorder is noted in several dog breeds, including terrier breeds, miniature pinscher, poodles and possibly schipperkes, it is assumed that there may be a genetic component to the problem. In Manchester terriers, the genetic component appears to be a strong influence and heritability is pretty high for this problem. Most of the time the clinical signs of this disease occur in 4 to 11 month old dogs and usually consist of lameness of one leg only. Pain may be mild to very severe. Some dogs have mild forms of this condition and do not require medical care. In other dogs, the condition cause sufficient pain and deformity of the hip joint to require surgical intervention. The disorder can usually be confirmed with X-rays. Atrophy of the muscles of the affected leg is not uncommon. If this is severe it can slow the recovery period considerably and may make medical therapy less likely to work. Treatment of this condition varies according to the severity of the signs seen. In mild cases, enforced rest may be sufficient to allow healing of the damaged areas to occur. In some cases, immobilization of the affected limb using an Ehmer sling may be beneficial to recovery. Many dogs have advanced cases of this disease by the time they are examined by a veterinarian and medical treatment is not likely to work. In these dogs, excision of the femoral head (ball portion of the hip joint) is often beneficial. Removal of this section of the bone diminishes painful bony contact in the hip joint. Recovery from this surgery can be slow with recovery periods of up to one year sometimes occurring before good use of the affected leg returns. If muscle atrophy is not present at the time of surgery the recovery time is usually much less. Pain relief and anti-inflammatory medications may be beneficial. There is a stronger tendency to treat this as a medical condition prior to surgery right now. A general rule of thumb is to allow non-surgical therapy a month to show a beneficial response. If one is not seen, surgical repair should be considered more carefully. Sources ?Jack Russel Terrier L'egg Perthes Retrieved February 1998 from the WWW http://www.terrier.com/medical/legg.htm ?Shumsky, Terri (1993) How to buy your Toy Dog, and Raise it Expensively California Creations by Terri. ?Richard, Michael, DVM Q&A-DR Mike Retrieved February 1998 from the WWW http Eclampsia Eclampsia is an acute, life-threatening disease caused by low calcium levels (hypocalcemia) in dogs and more rarely in cats. The lactating animal is especially susceptible to blood calcium depletion because of lactating. The bodies of some lactating dogs and cats simply cannot keep up with the increased demands for this mineral that they receive from their diet. Please remember that the diet may be fine for these affected individuals, but they lack the ability to quickly shunt calcium to their milk without depleting their own bodies. Eclampsia is most commonly encountered 1-3 weeks after giving birth, but it can occur anytime, even while pregnant. Litters do not need to be large to cause eclampsia but usually heavy milkers are at a greater risk, as are dogs of smaller breeds. The puppies and kittens themselves are not affected as the mother's milk appears to be normal during this period. Signs of eclampsia Eclampsia is a very serious disorder but fortunately the signs are fairly easy to recognize, especially when coupled with the period of lactation. Initially, the affected animal will be restless and nervous. Within a short time, she will walk with a stiff gait and may even wobble or appear disoriented. Eventually the animal may be unable to walk and exhibit extreme leg rigidity. Body temperature may increase to over 105° F and respiration rates will increase. At this point death can occur if no treatment is given. Treatment of eclampsia If you suspect eclampsia, seek veterinary attention at once and prevent the puppies or kittens from nursing for at least 24 hours. Supplement them with a commercial milk replacer. A veterinarian can confirm eclampsia with a blood test to determine blood calcium levels. Eclampsia can be rapidly corrected by your veterinarian through the use of intravenous calcium supplementation. The bitch or queen is monitored carefully for heart rhythm irregularities which can occur. She will be continued on oral calcium supplements as needed. If she responds well to treatment, her young can gradually be allowed to nurse. Prevention of eclampsia Inappropriate calcium supplementation can predispose a bitch or queen to develop eclampsia. Once a female has had milk fever during a lactation period, there is an excellent chance that it will repeat with future litters if preventative steps are not taken. Supplementation of dietary calcium does not seem to play a large role in preventing eclampsia. In fact, over-supplementation during pregnancy may actually cause it. All calcium supplements must be in the proper ratio with phosphorus. This ratio should be about 1:1 (i.e., 1 part calcium to 1 part phosphorus). In addition, it has been suggested that dog foods high in soybeans will be high in the plant product phytate. Phytates combine with calcium and can render the calcium unavailable to the bitch's body and therefore make her more susceptible to eclampsia. To remedy the problem, feed diets low in soybean. In conclusion, it is of great importance for breeders to be able to recognize the signs of eclampsia. If you feel your female is showing these signs, remove the kittens or pups to prevent further nursing and seek veterinary assistance at once. What is Lymphangiectasia? As part of the normal circulatory system, lymph fluid is collected from tissues throughout the body and returned to the blood by way of the lymphatic vessels. In intestinal lymphangiectasia, normal drainage is blocked so that intestinal lymph leaks into the intestines instead of being returned to the circulation. This results in the loss of proteins, lymphocytes ( a type of white blood cell), and lipids or fats into the stool. Intestinal lymphangiectasia may be congenital (present from birth) due to malformation of the lymphatic system, or it may be acquired in association with another disease. What does intestinal lymphangiectasia mean to your dog & you? Signs of intestinal lymphangiectasia usually develop slowly over several months, and may come and go. Your dog may fail to gain weight or may progressively lose weight. The loss of protein into the bowel causes loss of fluid from the circulation into the limbs, the abdomen, or the chest. Your dog's legs and/or abdomen may appear swollen and he/she may have trouble breathing. There may be a chronic persistent or intermittent diarrhea due to the loss of protein, fluid and fat into the bowel. How is intestinal lymphangiectasia diagnosed? If your dog has the signs described above, your veterinarian will likely suspect one of the diseases that result in loss of proteins into the gut. Laboratory tests and an intestinal biopsy are necessary to diagnose the specific cause. For the veterinarian: CLINICAL: diarrhea is usually mild or inapparent, in comparison with other protein-losing enteropathies. LABORATORY: hypoproteinemia with hypocholesteremia, lymphocytopenia, and/or hypoglobulinemia; frequently also see hypocalcemia due to vitamin D and calcium mal-absorption. It is important to assess liver and kidney function to rule out non-enteric causes of hypoproteinemia. SURGERY: a biopsy is necessary for definitive diagnosis by histologic examination. At surgery, usually see prominent network of milky distended lymphatic channels in the mesentery or on serosal surface. How is intestinal lymphangiectasia treated? This condition can not be cured but it can generally be well-managed by you and your veterinarian. Remissions of several months with occasional flare-ups are common. The major goal of therapy is to reduce the loss of proteins into the intestine, to restore normal protein levels in your dog. This is done through diet, and medication to reduce inflammation in the intestinal wall. An ideal diet for dogs with intestinal lymphangiectasia contains minimal fat, and an ample quantity of high-quality protein. There are commercial prescription diets available which fulfill these requirements, or your veterinarian can give you information to prepare a low-fat diet at home. In either case, you will need to supplement your dog's diet with fat-soluble vitamins, due to the poor absorption of fat that occurs with this condition. Corticosteroids are given to reduce inflammation, and thereby reduce loss of protein and associated diarrhea. Your veterinarian may also prescribe antibiotics. Resources Burrows, C.F., Batt, R.M., Sherding, R.G. 1995. Diseases of the small intestine. In S.J. Ettinger and E.C. Feldman (eds.) Textbook of Veterinary Internal Medicine. p. 1224-1225. W.B. Saunders Co., Toronto. Williams, D.A. 1998 Protein-losing enteropathy Proc. 16th ACVIM Forum pp 419-421 Copyright © 1998 Canine Inherited Disorders Database. All rights reserved. http://www.upei.ca/~cidd/ Hypoglycemia Hypoglycemia is the medical term for low blood sugar, which is a condition in which there is a drastic, sudden drop in the level of blood sugar in the puppy. In small breed puppies from post-weaning to 4 month of age, the most common form of hypoglycemia is called Transient Juvenile Hypoglycemia: "Transient" because the symptoms can be reversed by eating; "Juvenile" because it is seen in young puppies. Background on blood sugar: Glucose is the "simple" sugar that the body uses for "fuel" to run its various functions. Table sugar, or sucrose, is made up of two simple sugars, glucose and fructose, and can be broken down rapidly after eating. All sugars are carbohydrates. Grains are also carbohydrates but are considered "complex" carbohydrates because they have many more components and take longer to be broken down. The body uses glucose as its primary energy source. All the parts of the body except the brain can, if needed, use alternate energy sources--fatty acids, for example, which the body accesses by breaking down fat stores. The brain, however, is completely dependent upon glucose to function. If the glucose in the blood is lower than normal, the brain function is the first to show signs. The liver is responsible for manufacturing glucose and for storing it in a usable form, for release into the blood stream as needed. Muscle tissues store some of the important materials used in this process. Therefore, a serious liver abnormality or insufficient muscle mass may make it difficult for the body to keep its blood sugar properly regulated. How are small breeds different? Puppies of very small and toy breeds of dogs have characteristics that make them more prone to the development of Transient Juvenile Hypoglycemia, which is brought on by fasting. Pups of any breed are more likely to develop hypoglycemia than adults, because their skeletal muscle mass and liver size are smaller and brain size, larger, in proportion to the rest of their body. Therefore, there is less glucose being put out into the blood and more being used by the brain, which is dependent upon adequate glucose in order to function. In small and toy breeds, this discrepancy is more pronounced. Even a brief period of fasting in a toy breed puppy can trigger a hypoglycemic "attack. Puppies with Transient Juvenile Hypoglycemia have normal liver size and function, but inadequate glucose precursors or glucose in its stored form (body fat). What are the symptoms? Signs of an attack are a weakness, confusion, wobbly gait, frothing or drooling from the mouth - sometimes even a seizure and drain of blood from the head. A check of the gums will show them to be pale, almost a grayish white in color rather than a healthy bright pink. The puppy can go into shock and, if not cared for properly and promptly, may even die. What causes it? Episodes of hypoglycemia often occur without warning. A puppy may be stressed by shipping, or because of their tiny size toy puppies cannot eat a lot at one time, and literally run out of fuel quickly, being chilled, or even exhaustion from too much play may cause the body to use up more sugar than is available. For the young pup prone to this condition, even a brief period of fasting in a toy breed puppy can trigger a hypoglycemic "attack". Recurring hypoglycemic attacks in toy puppies can cause brain damage. Puppies should be fed several times a day a high quality diet. Most puppies will outgrow the problem. Some very tiny dogs will continue to have bouts of hypoglycemia through out their life What is the Treatment? Feeding recommendations for puppies at risk for hypoglycemia include: frequent (4-5 times a day) feedings of high-carbohydrate, high -protein and/or -fat foods. Feeding soft moist foods may help to prevent a hypoglycemia attack due to the high sugar content. Gatorade mixed with a little honey, Ringers lactate with dextrose or Pedialyte are good products to use if dog is having an attack. These products have electrolytes, which ailing puppies need. Honey and corn syrup can be used also. For pups who have had recurrent or prolonged signs, monitoring the urine for ketones with a "dipstick" made for diabetics is helpful, since a return to "ketone negative status" signals a return to normalcy. If these measures don't correct the problem, a trip to the vet is recommended. Eating food that is readily digested and metabolized will reverse minor signs, but intravenous glucose administration is required for severe cases. If your puppy is conscious, give him/her a little Karo Syrup, or Honey under its tongue, or rubbed on its gums. You can also mix honey, or corn syrup with pedialite, stir to dissolve, and dribble it into the puppy's mouth. I think that Nutri-Cal also works extremely well in an emergency. I will give my puppy a ?squeeze of Nutri-Cal' into their month. The puppy should begin to improve within about ten to fifteen minutes, if not contact your vet as quickly as you can. (Nutri-Cal is a high calorie dietary supplement in a low volume form. It is a great tasting vitamin paste. You can purchase this tube for under $10.00. I recommend that you have this on hand for all emergencies and especially when you travel with your yorkie.) Are there other causes of Hypoglycemia in puppies? There are numerous other causes of hypoglycemia in puppies, but they are much less common. It is important to distinguish between whether the signs of hypoglycemia occur with fasting or just following a meal. Hypoglycemia can also be an inherited condition. If a female has been hypoglycemic, it's likely that she will pass it on to her puppies. Some problems are caused by liver problems, such as a defect involving an abnormal blood vessel shunt (a "detour," of sorts) around the liver, and some are caused by hereditary metabolic defects, hormone defects and deficiencies, and severe bacterial infections. All of these are serious problems that need to be diagnosed as soon as possible. Resources: Vet@Dog Dr. Lucy L. Pinkston, D.V.M. http://www.dog.com/vet/nutrition/03.html 3-10-03 Drs Foster & Smith http://www.DrsFosterSmith.com Yorkieviews.com 3-10-2003

HYPOGLYCEMIA INFORMATION

THE FOLLOWING INFO NORMALLY ONLY PERTAINS TO TOY BREEDS

Hypoglycemia (low blood sugar) is a disorder that occurs mainly in toy breed puppies between six and twelve weeks of age.  It's often precipitated by stress and can occur without warning (if the puppy is susceptible). It might appear after the puppy misses a meal, chills, has parasites, becomes exhausted from playing, or has a dig-estive upset. These events place an added strain on the energy reserves and bring on symptoms. Tiny toy breed puppies have immature livers, the liver is the organ that supplies them with the energy they need to keep all systems functioning properly.  This is not a genetic condition and is not covered under any guarantee.

Hypoglycemia is a real threat to a tiny puppy, so watch for your puppy to become tired or lethargic. The first signs are those of listlessness and depression. Muscular weakness, tremors, and later convulsions, coma    and even death can follow if left untreated. The puppy may appear depressed or may be weak, wobbly and          jerky, or the puppy may be found in a coma and APPEAR nearly dead, unable to even blink or swallow.Don't      give up on your puppy if you find it in this condition!Do not rush to the vet without treating yourself first! If   it's hypoglycemic and you treat it, it will be back on it's feet and wagging it's tail within half an hour!! By all  means, take the pup to the vet but treat it first following the guidelines below before you take it to the vet,   they tend to overlook the most simple treatment and opt for expensive testing and treatment which often      results in the death of the puppy!  So treat first.  On the way to the vet would be a good time to start                 treatment.

If your puppy has any symptoms of hypoglycemia you must act fast! Force feed it 1 teaspoon of Nutri-ca, honey or Karo corn syrup by mouth (mix with warm water and drip slowly into the side of the mouth if the pup can't swallow well). Be sure to keep an eye dropper or syringe in your kitchen for any emergencies such as     this.  You should see signs of improvement within thirty minutes of treatment. If no improvement, call your veterinarian. Don't rush pup to the vet until you've treated it and given it time to show signs of improvement, if it appears nearly dead your vet may overreact, not only running up a huge vet bill for you but possibly killing   the pup with too much testing, medication, etc. I have never had a hypoglycemic puppy die as a result of the        hypoglycemia alone, the few that have died had underlying major health problems and the hypoglycemia was  the result of those problems.  Once the crisit is past, it might be wise to go ahead and have the vet check the  pup to rule out an underlying infection or other problem.

Prevent hypoglycemia from happening by allowing only twenty minutes of play at a time, followed by rest or sleep. Do not allow puppy to overtire at first. Supervise closely with children to make sure puppy is getting   enough rest. Keep puppy warm, don't let it become chilled. Your puppy is a house dog and should not be living outdoors.  Feed . See that puppy eats AT LEAST every 4-6 hours at first. Keep dry food and water available at least four times a day.

You can give ½ teaspoon of Nutri-cal or honey morning and night for the first couple of days to help prevent the low blood sugar that can come with the excitement and stress of going to a new home.rarely a problem  but we want to make sure you are prepared to prevent this problem or prepared in the event it does occur.  Be sure to call me if you have any problems at all!

TEETH:  all toy breeds, can have serious tartar buildup on their teeth starting at a fairly young age. Be aware that unless you're willing to get the teeth cleaned every six months or so once they're adults, you could be  in for some serious gum disease and loss of teeth.  Also, puppies tend to retain baby teeth, always check your pup around teething time (4 months for many pups) and make sure the vet pulls retained baby teeth before the adult teeth come all the way in so that your puppies bite will be the best it was meant to be.

Heatstroke can happen to your pet

It's a warm summer day and you're on the way to the grocery store to pick up a loaf

of bread. In the parking lot you pass an older model Plymouth with a poodle

panting inside.

You should:

a) Smile and acknowledge the cute pet

b) Run into the grocery store and page the dog's owner

c) Buy the dog a treat

If you choose "B", then you choose wisely. The panting poodle may be minutes from

death - a victim of heatstroke. You need to get the poodle out of the car and reduce its

body temperature.

Every year, thousands of pets die from overexposure to heat. It's usually because

people leave their pets in cars while they shop or run a quick errand. It doesn't have to be

extremely hot outdoors for a pet to suffer heatstroke inside a car.

Leaving a pet inside a closed automobile for just 15 to 20 minutes is risky on an 80-

degree day as temperatures can quickly rise to 120 degrees Fahrenheit - enough heat to

kill a pet. Even 10 minutes inside a hot car is enough to cause exhaustive heatstroke in

cats and small dogs. Hamsters, guinea pigs, and birds have even less of a chance of

survival.

An open window? No good.

Leaving windows wide open in the car is not the answer. Additional dangers come

with that option. Your pet may jump out of the vehicle and become a traffic casualty. Also

leaving the windows open "just a crack" isn't enough to prevent heatstroke.

Heatstroke can be prevented quite easily if you follow one Rule: Leave your

pet at home when running errands in the summer months.

If it is not possible to leave your pet at home, then take these precautions to combat

heatstroke during short trips: Run errands during cooler times of the day, dawn or dusk.

Leave car windows down, and protect with pet-secure window screens that allow maximum air flow.

Carry a gallon jug of fresh, cool water from home along with a bowl from which your pet

may drink.

Check on your pet's health every few minutes

Signs of heatstroke

Heatstroke in a pet is very easy to diagnose. Some first signs are quite visible.

They include excessive panting, salivation, and a racing pulse. The pet also will have a

high body temperature and may even vomit. In latter stages of heatstroke, a pet lapses into

a coma. At this point, many pets suffer brain damage and die.

Emergency treatment

When your pet experiences some of the warning signs of heatstroke, we advise trying to lower your pet's body temperature on the way to the veterinarian.

Submerging or pouring cold water over your pet's body can help. Ice packs, if available,

can be used, too. You should also rinse your pet's mouth with cool water, offering only

small amounts to drink.

© 1992, 2004 Petland, Inc.

Giardia
are actually protozoan's (single celled organisms) and are commonly found in the
intestines of many animals, including dogs. This microscopic parasite clings to the
surface of the intestine, or floats free in the mucous lining the intestine. A few percent
of dogs and cats will carry Giardia organisms and not show any signs of disease.  Actual
diarrhea, bloody or mucous stool often accompanied by gas production is seen most
often in affected puppies and kittens.  Giardia can have a significant impact on the
health status of malnourished and stressed pups and kittens.  Dogs that are stressed
nutritionally or by exposure or by strong physical activity may have a previously low
grade Giardia infestation flare up into a significant disease.

Life Cycle

Giardia occurs in two forms: a motile (swimming) feeding stage that lives in the
intestine, and a non-motile cyst stage that passes in the feces. Encystment occurs as
the parasite travels from the small intestine to the large intestine. The cysts are fairly
resistant, and can survive for several months outside the animal as long as sufficient
moisture is present. Mature cysts are usually found in the feces of infected animals.
Animals become infected by ingesting these cysts. The ingested cysts then break open
in the new host's intestine to release the motile feeding stage (trophozoite). Giardia
reproduce by a process of cell division (called binary fission).
Different species of Giardia are structurally very similar. It was customary to give each
Giardia a different name when it was found in a new host. For examples, the Giardia in
dogs was called Giardia canis; in cattle, Giardia bovis, and so on. Today scientists
believe that only a few species occur, and each species can infect more than one host.
However, more research is needed to identify each species and determine the hosts
they can infect.

Giardia is transmitted from one dog to another through the ingestion of cysts in
contaminated feed or drinking water. Cysts may also be found in streams or other water
sources. The trophozoite stage may also be infective to dogs. This stage does not
survive for very long after being voided in the feces. Therefore, it probably does not
contribute significantly to the transmission of Giardia.

What is Reverse Sneezing?

Reverse sneezing, also known as the "mechanosensitive aspiration reflex" is a common phenomenon in dogs. In a regular sneeze, your dog pushes air out through the nose; however, in a reverse sneeze, air is pulled rapidly in through the nose producing a noisy aspiratory effort.

What a Reverse Sneeze Looks Like

During a reverse sneeze, your dog will make rapid inspirations, stand still with his elbows spread apart, extend his head, and his eyes may bulge. He'll make a loud snorting sound, which might make you think he has something caught in his throat. Many dog owners think their pet is suffocating during a reverse sneeze episode. Each reverse sneezing occurrence generally lasts for less than a minute up to two minutes.

Causes of Reverse Sneezing

The exact reason for these reverse sneezing episodes is unknown but may be related to allergies, nasal irritants, or nasal inflammation

. Any age, breed or sex can be affected.
A reverse sneeze may look disturbing - many people fear that their dog is not breathing during these episodes - but it is not a harmful condition and there are no ill effects. Reverse sneezing attacks are generally quite brief and not life threatening. Between episodes, the dog acts normal.

In some situation when reverse sneezing is frequent, a more serious condition may be the underlying cause. In those situations, testing for nasal mites, nasal cancer should be done.

How to Stop a Reverse Sneezing Episode

An episode can be stopped if the dog is stimulated to swallow by either massaging the throat or briefly pinching off the nasal openings. Sometimes opening the dogs' mouth and gently pulling on the dogs tongue or giving the dog something to eat and drink can also stop the reverse sneezing episode. Some dogs have reverse sneezing episodes so frequently that various medications may be needed to reduce their frequency.

What to Watch For

If the revere sneezing occurs frequently (daily or several times a day) and is associated with other clinical signs, then further evaluation should be completed by your veterinarian.
Watch for other abnormal signs that may suggest a more serious problem including nasal discharge, epistaxis (bloody nose), sneezing, difficulty breathing

, abnormal facial deformity over the nose area, decreased appetite and/or lethargy

Helping A Constipated Puppy

It's natural to worry if you have a constipated puppy, but there are many simple and effective treatments you can use to make him feel better.

There are also simple things you can do to prevent him from having this problem again (you don't want a constipated puppy on a regular basis!)

Although dog constipation isn't terribly common, it does tend to have an above average occurrence in the small/tiny breeds such as Yorkshire Terriers, Chihuahuas, Maltese and so on.

The first thing you need to do is recognize the symptoms you may see in a constipated dog. Luckily this is pretty easy :o)

Constipation in dogs has pretty much the same symptoms as in humans - an inability to pass regular bowel movements. Straining (with or without obvious pain) which doesn't produce a bowel movement, or the passing of small, hard/dry feces at irregular intervals.

Although this isn't generally anything that needs immediate veterinary attention, there are health issues/conditions that cause constipation which need to be treated by your veterinarian. You'll find a list of these further down the page.

IMPORTANT NOTE! If your puppy has eaten/ingested/swallowed any 'foreign object' (and if you've ever raised a puppy, you'll know how common that is) and shows signs of constipation, seems distressed or in pain, vomits/retches or has a distended belly, seek veterinary attention right away. It's possible that he has an intestinal/bowel obstruction and this can be an emergency.

Preventing puppy constipation

There are some simple things you can do to help prevent your puppy from getting constipated in the first place. These include :

• Diet
  Just like in people, a diet that contains enough fiber will help the digestive system to function properly. If your pup or dog is prone to constipation, choose a dog food with a minimum of 4% fiber, 5% is even better. Solid Gold Dry Dog Food has 5% fiber, and you can also buy special 'prescription' or high-fiber foods such as Hills I/D or W/D which have significantly higher fiber content (between 8 and 16%). Hills Foods are available from your veterinarian. Giving your puppy snacks of raw carrots, celery, apples or pears can also be beneficial.
• Fluids
  Your puppy needs access to fresh water at all times during the day. Aim for a daily minimum of about one ounce of water per pound of body weight, in hot weather, a centrally heated/dry environment or if your dog is very active he'll need more. If your pup has some issues with slow moving bowels and you can't seem to get him to drink more, you can always add some warm water to his dry food at one mealtime each day to get some more fluids into him.
• Exercise
  Plenty of exercise is essential to keep your puppy health and happy. If you have a constipated puppy (or one who tendency towards it), increasing his exercise and activity level can help. The benefits are two-fold; firstly, the physical aspects of the exercise help to keep his digestive system and bowels 'moving along' preventing the sluggishness that can lead to constipation. Secondly, long walks or a vigorous game of 'fetch' or frisbee keep him outside longer and help to give him plenty of time to eliminate when he has the chance. If you're housebreaking or crate training, and your pup doesn't do his business while your out, he may try to 'hold it' for too long, and this can cause the colon to slow down and the feces to get hard and difficult to pass.
• Trimming Long Hair
  This may sound odd, but sometimes in long haired breeds, the hair around the puppy's rear end becomes tangled or matted, and it actually physically prevents the puppy from having a bowel movement. If you have a constipated puppy who has long hair around his bottom, keeping it trimmed short will prevent this sort of 'mechanical constipation'.

What are the main causes of constipation in dogs?

There are several different things that can cause constipation in puppies (or dogs). They range from the simple and obvious, to the unexpected or unusual! Here are some of the most common ones :

• Hairballs
  If you thought it was just cats that got hairballs - think again. Dogs who groom/lick themselves a lot, especially if they're long haired, can swallow a lot of fur (watch out for this if you have a dog with allergies or skin problems or is an obsessive 'licker'). This hair can get 'balled up' inside your pup, and it then causes a blockage or slows down the intestinal tract. The result is a constipated puppy!
• Eating odd 'stuff'
  Puppies will be puppies, and they tend to want to eat everything that's not nailed down - and some things that are! However, ingesting inappropriate items can result in a constipated puppy due to an internal 'slow down' or traffic jam. At worst it can cause a complete blockage (which requires urgent veterinary attention).

Crunchy 'bone treats', rawhide toys/treats or even natural bones can all cause this problem. Not surprisingly, so can that plastic grocery sac, the contents of the bathroom trash can, or your best undies that your dog ate this morning :o) If your pup or dog eats something he shouldn't, watch carefully for it to 'come out the other end', within 24 - 36 hours. If it doesn't and your pet shows signs of constipation, pain or distress (see 'Important Note' at top of this page), get him to your vet for evaluation immediately.

• Medications
  Some medications that your dog takes to treat other conditions can sometimes be the cause of dog constipation. Anti-histamines (used to treat allergies) can have this effect, as can over the counter medications that are used to treat diarrhea (such as Immodium or PeptoBismol). It's never a good idea to give your pup ANY kind of medication without clearing it with your veterinarian first. Adverse (or even unexpected) reactions can occur and it's always better to be safe than sorry.
• Medical Conditions
  Although puppy constipation is rarely caused by any serious medical issues, it can happen, and in older dogs it's even more possible. Things such as Kidney Disease, Prostate problems, tumors, a perineal hernia or even bacterial infections can sometimes cause dog constipation.
• 'Mechanical Constipation' or 'Psuedoconstipation'
  This is caused by long hair around the dogs' anus/bottom getting tangled or matted. If it gets bad enough, the hair can prevent bowel movements, and you have a constipated puppy on your hands.
• Surgery
  Surgery, and the accompanying anasthesia and lack of activity during the recovery period, can cause your pups' digestive system to slow down - this may result in constipation. It's something worth remembering in the days after your pup has been spayed or neutered

Treating a constipated puppy or dog

If, in spite of your best efforts, your pup becomes constipated there are some straightforward remedies that should get his bowels moving fairly quickly. Adding certain things to your puppys' diet can often help treat occasional bouts of constipation in dogs. Here are a few to try -

• Canned Pumpkin
  A simple dog constipation remedy is to add a little canned pumpkin (NOT the pie filling variety, just good old plain pumpkin) in your pups' meals can be helpful. Add 1 teaspoon to 1 tablespoon depending on his size. Pureed pumpkin baby food also works.
• Bran
  Add some extra fiber in the form of Bran, Metamucil, Benefiber or similar products. About 1/2 teaspoon added to your pups meals for a few days. If your dog weighs over 50lbs you can use 1 tablespoon instead. 1 teaspoon of oat bran, or 2 teaspoons of Grape Nut flakes added to her food will work the same way.
• Oil
  Adding some extra oil to your pups diet can help to soften the stools and help his bowels keep moving along nicely. 1/2 tsp of olive oil added to his meals works. For more difficult cases, try 1 - 2 teaspoons of Mineral Oil, but don't do this for longer than 3 or 4 days. Mineral oil removes Vitamin A from your dog's body and it can be harmful if used for longer than this.
• 'Special' Dog Foods
  Some manufacturers sell dog food that is specifically formulated with extra fiber to help a constipated dog or puppy move their bowels regularly. Most foods contain between 2% and 4% fiber, Solid Gold dry dog food has 5%, and Hills offer two foods - I/D and W/D. These are available from most veterinary clinics.
• Milk
  Dogs don't digest cows' milk properly, and in normal circumstances it causes diarrhea. However, if you have a constipated puppy you can add 1/4 to 1/2 cup of milk to their food or water, or just give it to them to drink. Do this once a day for a couple of days and it should help loosen the bowels.
• Keeping Long Hair Trimmed
  If you have a constipated puppy due to long, tangled or matted hair around his little bottom, carefully trim it away with small scissors. Be very careful not to cut the skin. Keeping this hair short in the future should prevent a recurrence. If your pup has been constipated for a while, just trimming the hair may not be enough to get his bowels moving. You may need to also use another dog constipation remedy as well.
• OTC Dog Constipation RemediesThere are a few OTC treatments available for a constipated dog or pup. To prevent, and eliminate, hairballs that are causing your dog's constipation, try Laxatone . It has been specifically formulated to prevent and eliminate those pesky hairballs, and has a laxative effect to help end your dogs' constipation.

If you like the natural approach to treating a constipated puppy, try PetAlive 'Natural Moves' for Pet Constipation and Digestive Health. This is a natural, gentle, herbal remedy that helps maintain healthy bowel and digestive functions in your puppy or dog.

Or try Only Natural Pet Laxa-Herb Herbal Formula which is a gentle, laxative herbal formula for overnight relief of occasional constipation in puppies and dogs.

NOTE Whatever remedy you use to treat constipation in dogs, make sure you give your pooch lots of water to drink as well. It's important to keep a constipated puppy (or dog) well hydrated, and some of these dog constipation remedies require extra water in his system in order to work effectively.

Vaccinations & General Health

It is very important that you keep up with your pup's shots.  Just because a breeder tells you the pup is up to date on shots does not mean his shot history is complete.  Pups should receive shots at approximately 6-9-12 and 16 weeks.  That is just standard "baby shots".  Of course there are other inoculations required such as rabies and you should consult your veterinarian regarding inoculations.   Although we give pups shots as early as 5 weeks of age, those immunizations do not remain with the pup because they have received and are receiving mother's milk.  The immunizations do the job they need to do for the time being but do not stay with the pup.  That's why they must be repeated every few weeks.  The shot that really "stays" with your pup is the 12 week and 16 week shot and shots given beyond that age because of their immature immune system and mother's milk.  Until your pup is 16 weeks of age and has had the 12 and 16-week shot, I STRONGLY suggest you do not allow your pup around strange dogs.   DON'T let your puppy "potty" indiscriminately.  Your pup should "go" in the designated area you provide and not be allowed to sniff around and share potty facilities with other dogs.  Your pup is a baby. 

IT'S ALL ABOUT THE POOP:   My days start and end with my obsession about poops.  I am not a medical person but it is my opinion that a pup's health issues are often times first reflected in its appetite and poop!  A healthy poop usually means a healthy pup.  As long as the pup is pooping tootsie rolls, I don't worry.  When it gets loose or watery, I panic.  When a pup has diarrhea, it loses fluids and that can be very dangerous.  A pup can appear very sick but when they begin to refuse food, we worry.  I have had pups in the hospital and when I talk to the doctors and techs, the first sign of improvement is appetite.  Please don't confuse being a finicky eater with poor health.  When I have a sick pup or a pup I think might be sick, I offer the pup chicken baby food or boiled chicken.  If the pup refuses it, I worry.

TEACUPS: Many people want their adult dogs tinier and tinier.  There is no such thing as a Teacup pup.  the term Teacup simply refers to pups smaller than the standard of the breed.  Taking on the responsibility of one of these tiny pups is an awesome task.  Tiny pups are not for every family.  You cannot bring a tiny dog to your home from ours and simply leave it home all day.  Our tinies never go more than 6 hours without food.  When I say this, I mean food other than the dry kibble, which is left down for them 24-7.  I am referring to them being offered wet food or NutriStat. (I don't give to much because then they will not want to eat their puppy food I will feed our tinies at midnight and again at 6:00 a.m.  I understand everyone may not be able to do this but a tiny can NEVER go longer than 8 hours without direct contact (overnight only) and food other than kibble.  We follow this feeding schedule until a pup reaches 3 pounds or 16 weeks of age, whichever comes first.   If you are not able to follow these guidelines, you should not have a "teacup".  These pups are not little stuffed animals that look cute in your purse.  They are not fashion accessories.  They are living, breathing creatures that deserve the best treatment available.

The Trip Home

Bring a blanket.  Bring a towel or paper towels. Some pups become carsick the first few times in a car, so be prepared.   If your pup becomes car sick on the ride home don't give him water until after you are home and he has rested.  Give him some NutriStat and allow his belly to rest for 1/2 hour before offering food or water.

HOMESICKNESS: Your pup may be a little "homesick" for the first few days.  He has just left his littermates and his human family who have cared for him for his entire short life.  Familiar sounds and smells are replaced with new ones.  You will probably find your pup is very quiet for the first few days.  Our new owners often report how "good" the new pup is but then he adjusts to his new surroundings and watch out!  He will begin to show his true personality.  Nervousness or change of diet may cause diarrhea.  We recommend you feed your pup Pedigre dry Puppy Food.  Your pup has been eating that food exclusively and a change in diet almost always causes bowel changes. If you change his diet do it slowly, a little at a time. I also mix a little bit of ?Cesars' Puppy can in once a day.

First Few Days Home "Troubles"

 It is very important to locate and keep on hand the phone number and address of the nearest 24-hour veterinary hospital.  This info should be on your fridge with all-important numbers for the remainder of your pet's life.  Minutes matter!!!

FINICKY EATING:  Your pup's appetite may be "off" for the first few days at home so you must be careful not to confuse this with actual sickness or lack of appetite.  Small breed pups often experience low blood sugar.  When this happens if your pup is not eating, you will have to encourage him to do so.  You can get some human meat baby food and mix it with the dry food.  Eventually, you can decrease the baby food.  You can also soak the dry food in chicken broth.  Remember though, when you begin giving your dog snacks and adding wet food, he will often become disinterested in the dry kibble.  It's similar to your choosing a cheeseburger over a cracker.

LOW BLOOD SUGAR:  Hypoglycemia occurs in small breeds.  Symptoms of hypoglycemia are white gums, rolled up eyes, inability to stand up straight and seizures.  The small breeds can get hypoglycemia any time of the day but overnight is the most common time.  Many years ago when I had my first Yorkie I woke in the morning and realized my pup was not stirring.  When I went to her pen she was listless.  By the time I rushed her to the vet, she was gone.  The breeder I purchased her from never mentioned low blood sugar.  When I called crying to tell her what happened, she then told me about low blood sugar in Yorkies!!!  Low blood sugar is not covered in health guarantees, nor should it be, but your breeder should give you proper information.  If you even think your pup has low blood sugar, give the pup some honey.  When in doubt, use sugar.  Don't worry about giving the pup too much sugar!  Put him in a warm place (wrapped up in a soft towel just out of the dryer or microwave and in your arms is the best place) and within a very short time he will be perking up.  As soon as he is able, offer him food.  Baby food chicken is the best.  Hypoglycemia also occurs when puppies become stressed.  We also keep Enervite, Nutristat, on hand.  It is a high calorie, high sugar supplement that you can give your pup each night before bed or whenever he is extremely busy.  It comes in a toothpaste-like tube.  But the sugared cereal or honey works just as well for prevention, although the NutriStat is easy to keep on hand and best for times of emergency when the pup won't eat.  Just open his mouth and squirt it in.  I suggest you have both honey and NutriStat or Enervite available.  We have explained in great detail about the danger of hypoglycemia.  You have received the information in written form.  You must pay strict attention to this potential problem.

Safety

YOUR PUP IS A BABY:  Although your pup is not a human, he is still a baby and should be treated as such.  During the first few weeks at home, give the pup frequent rest times.  Small breed dogs have amazing energy requirements because they reach maturity in 8 to 12 months.  Put the pup in "time out' just as you would put a baby in for a nap.  Although toy breeds love to be handled, they also need rest.  If your pup has a lot of unusual activity, make sure he eats and has a nap.  Remember, the pup is fragile and must be treated like a baby for the next few months.  Do not allow your pup to come in contact with other dogs.  Even though that dog is fully vaccinated, he may be a carrier and although it does not affect him because he is an adult, it can be a death sentence to your pup.    Never leave a pup unattended.  Your pup should either be in his crate, in your arms or directly within your view.  So many sad stories of dropped yorkies, pups eating a pill from the floor or becoming poisoned from some other matter.  Your pup is not a plaything.  I know you are proud of your pup and you want to show him off but you must be very careful.

CHILDREN:  When a young child holds your pup in an incorrect manner, the supply of air to the windpipe can become compromised.  Pups are dropped on their heads and that is it. 

HEIGHTS:  Some toy breeds are very daring and will jump off of a bed or a sofa long before they should.  My rule of thumb is:  "If they can't jump up on it of their own accord, they shouldn't be on it unsupervised".  Don't walk away from your bed because your pup will take that long jump down to be with you.  The nicest big dog may confuse your tiny pup with lunch!  Actually, they may think it is a rabbit, and go for it.    Larger breeds have often been known to seriously hurt a Yorkie or other small toy breed pup by simply stepping on it or playing too roughly.  I'm not saying that you should not have a big dog and a Yorkie.  Many people have Lab - Yorkie combinations and they are best buddies, with the Yorkie often being the Top Dog.  I'm just stating the facts.  You have to be careful until the pup is hardy enough.  And.. a hawk may confuse your pup for a rabbit and swoop down and grab him for dinner.  It happens much more often then one would think.

LEASH AND COLLAR:  We never use a collar on our toy breeds.  We use a halter.  They should not have that collar around their neck because toy breeds are prone to tracheal collapse so why tempt fate?  A halter is also good because you can pick up your pup when he is on the fly without hurting him.   WALK THE DOG ON A LEASH!!!!!  Do not carry the pup all the time and don't think it is cute that the puppy only likes you.  The pup must be around a lot of people and go to others.  Growling is unacceptable!  If you pup growls when you touch his food, you must speak very sharply and let him now that you are top dog.  Being food aggressive is not cute.   Remember, you are alpha dog and he is at the bottom of the pack.  

CAR SEAT:  I strongly recommend a car seat for your pup (dog).  You can buy one for 25.00 that will fit over the back of your seat and give your pup a comfortable, safe place to view the world as it speeds by.  Dogs love to look out the window and they can do so safely.  Left loose, your pup can become a tiny projectile. 

VETERINARY CARE:  There are spay and neuter and rabies clinics available, but regular veterinary care must be factored into the ongoing care for a pup throughout the life of the pup.  Your dog will require yearly health exams, vaccinations and monthly flea, tick and heartworm preventative at a minimum.  All dogs must be spayed/neutered.  Please do so at the direction of your vet.  When your pup is spayed or neutered, please have your vet check for and remove "double teeth".  Double teeth is common is small breeds.  Baby teeth are not pushed out by the new permanent teeth and the result is that the dog has two rows of teeth.  The extra teeth must be removed. Sometimes, only a few teeth remain and sometimes it may be an entire second row.  Having them removed during the spay/neuter surgery saves the pup from undergoing two separate surgeries and saves you the additional expense.  

Grooming

Your pup will not shed but he must be brushed.  Preferable every day!!   Your pup will be in your arms and on your lap a lot so just get in the habit of brushing him.  Actually, I prefer a comb to a brush.  The brush sometimes does not get the hair closest to the skin.  Have your pup lay on one side, then the other.  He will get used to it and grooming will not be a chore, but will become something you just do together.  He will even learn to like it, as will you. 

TOPKNOT:.    Place that topknot in the hair when they are still young, before the hair is so long that you actually need it.  They will become used to it.  Some owners just prefer to keep "bangs' short and that if fine but if you are going to let the hair grow long, get the pup used to a top knot.  Your pup will do the "Yorkie head dance".  You will recognize it when you see it.  They all do the exact same dance.  It's as if they actually have become instructed as to how they can get rid of that bow.  She will rub her head on the floor, the bed, the wall, whatever, making every effort to remove that knot.  It often times becomes a "man against dog" challenge to see who wins. 

HERE ARE A FEW THINGS TO DO WITH YOUR PUP TO GET THEM USED TO GROOMING:

1.  When you hold your pup, get in the habit of holding the little paws, caressing the paw, etc.  The pup will be used to you "holding" the paw and will not be as apt to misbehave at nail clipping time.  If your pup pulls away from you, he does not know you are in charge and that is not good.  The more you hold the paws, the more the pup will get used to it and know you are in charge and nail clipping, etc., will not be difficult.  Play with his ears so he will allow the groomer to clean them.  Hold the hairs under his chin as if you are trying to steady his head.  The groomer will do this to trim his hair and he will be used to it.

2.  Turn on an electric shaver (with the cap on) and run it over the pup's body each week.  Let the pup get used to the sound and the vibration so when grooming time comes you will not have a problem.  I learned this the hard way.  I knew of a lady who had a Yorkie who was blackballed from every grooming salon in my area.  They would "do" her once and not welcome her back again.  Also, allow them to be around the blow dryer when you are using one so they are not afraid.

Myth Busters

Toy breeds have a reputation regarding certain behaviors that are not actually a puppy behavior, but rather an owner behavior.  These little guys are adept at owner training.  They know how to train you very well.

TOY BREEDS ARE HARD TO HOUSEBREAK:  Because they are so little, their humans do not do what they are supposed to do to housebreak.  Your PUP is a dog!  They are somewhat fragile when they are babies but by the time your PUP comes home with you, the pup should be hardy, except in the case of the tiniest babies.  If you want your pup to potty outside, then get his little butt out the door.  He won't turn into a "Pupsicle".  He might shake as if he were going to absolutely die but chances are, if you persist, he will get used to the outside.  A sweater is a good thing for toy breeds when the weather is very cold.  They don't like to go out in the rain.  My little Angels put their heads out the door, see that is raining and turns right around as if to say, "I am not going out in the rain".  Most will go on out, but I do have to encourage others or I place them on their paper in a designated potty area.  You must insist.

TOY BREEDS ARE PRONE TO BITING:  If you let them nip, they might bite.  People think it is cute when they nip and they are reluctant to discipline a TINY dog because they are so small.  When a pup bites you should grab him by the scruff of the neck and give a little pinch.  That is what his mama does.  Or a stern tap on the nose and "NO".  Don't be afraid to put your pup in "time out".  When he misbehaves, put him in his crate for a few minutes so he can regroup.  If you have other pets and your pup is misbehaving in terms of biting or being aggressive with other dogs, you must use the time out procedure.  It works.

TOY BREEDS HAVE BAD TEETH:  Although toy breeds can have a tendency for bad teeth, a soft diet will add to the problem.   Your dog will have bad teeth when he is older if he was fed poorly for his entire life.  If you are going to feed your toy breed soft food or table food, he will have bad teeth.  Many manufacturers offer food for small dogs in tiny pellets.  Although this is somewhat necessary when they are little babies, it becomes less so as the pups grows.  Feed them a good size kibble so they will have something substantial to chew on.  I also give my Yorkies a raw chicken breast once a week.  They love it and it helps to clean their teeth.  Raw meat can not make dogs sick as it does with humans. 

Alpha Dog/Potty Training

Alpha Dog and potty training are directly connected.  Who is Alpha Dog?  This should be you.  If you allow your puppy to take over as alpha dog, you will pay dearly for years.  Dogs are pack animals and they understand the order of things.  The dog that brings them their food is the pack leader.  That should be you.

Before you bring home your new little darling you should be prepared.  Take care to have all the items necessary for your new family member who is a baby at the present time. Be sure to have a safe area for him.   Dogs live in dens.  Provide him with one.  Show him his new "safe place" and he will love it.  When you first bring a pup home she should either be in your arms, playing outside with you (supervised), on a leash or in his crate.

Our pups are "spoiled" in the sense they receive the best care, lots of things to play with and they receive lots of time with us.  They are well socialized.  Very well socialized. 

An example of this is:  Our puppies live in a large puppy pen.  Each day we place a new plaything in the pen to give them something new to do.  It is amazing to watch the interactions among them.  As soon as a new item enters the puppy pen, the place rocks.  You can watch as they vie for the new toy. The new den may be a cardboard box or a plastic "cave type" structure.  All hell breaks loose as they determine who is "King of the castle".   After a little while, everyone decides who is in charge and they settle in.  Then someone goes home with their new family and it starts all over again, depending on the placement in the pack that specific pup had at that particular time.  If he was the alpha dog of the pack, the puppy pen goes in an uproar for a few more hours.  The reason I am telling you this is to explain how important it is for your newest family member is not the leader of the pack in your home.  He can and should be loved and cherished but he must not be the leader.  That position belongs to you.

POTTY TRAINING:  Potty training must be achieved by positive reinforcement.  Don't try rubbing your pup's face in his poop.  They actually don't mind that at all and are confused when you do that, especially when you are using a stern tone or yelling loud words that he does not understand.  Puppy is thinking: "Mmmmmmmmmm, this smells pretty good but why is my human yelling"????  Failed potty training is the single most reason why dogs end up in shelters.  Which is the right method???  The right way is whichever method you choose.  Making it "right" is up to you.  If you decide that you want your dog to "go" outside, you MUST take the opportunity to do it right the very first moment he enters your home.  You only have one chance to do it right the first time.  Housebreaking is all about opportunity.  If you do not allow your pup the opportunity to "Go" in the wrong place, he will go in the right place.  It is as simple as that.

When you leave us with your pup, hold him or have him in his crate for the ride home.  Take him immediately to the designated potty area at your house.  Put him down on a leash and don't give him much lead to move around.  If he goes, give him all kinds of praise and then give him some room to check out the new facilities while still on the leash.  If he doesn't "go", pick him up and take him inside but don't put him down on the floor until he "goes" outside.   Then take him inside and don't' give him the opportunity to "go" anywhere in the house.  Keep him in your arms, in his crate or on a very short leash for 4 days.  Again, it is all about OPPORTUNITY.  If you can do this for 4 days, you will have a dog that is well on his way to be housebroken.  It's a lot of work but what is 4 days compared to 14 years times 365 days you will have that pup in your life?  Remember, it is all about opportunity.

Your puppy will have to "go" after he wakes up from naps or in the morning,  so it is best to get him outside as soon as you can. Opportunity!!

The main way your pup will know you are alpha dog is if you feed him.  The person who will be training him should feed him.  The person who provides him with food is alpha dog.  It is as simple as that in his world. 

Although I say on my site that these dogs are small and we leave food down 24-7, it is not the best way to feed your pup if you are trying to housebreak him to go outside.  Unless he is a tiny pup and low blood sugar has to be a big issue, you should feed your pup 3 times a day and a snack.  If you are not home in the daytime, twice a day will do.  The toy breeds are unique in the fact that when they get finicky, they can starve themselves into a hypoglycemic episode and that is dangerous.